The Most Stylish British Spy Is Back
Did you ever wonder what shoes James Bond wears in the No Time To Die Movie?
The Chukka Boots Daniel Craig wears during the Norway scenes really caught my eye so I decided to check them out.
So I welcome you all to the Crockett & Jones Molton in Roughout Suede Review!
Read on and find out today if 007’s shoes are as good as they look.
Who Makes James Bond’s Shoes?
If you didn’t read the title or skipped the intro (bad boys!) you might need a refresher. If you don’t know who James Bond is…I am not sure what you are doing here!
It only makes sense that Britain’s most iconic spy would wear British Shoes. And what better company than legendary Crockett & Jones is fit to provide them?
Crockett & Jones makes some of the finest shoes in the world and dresses James Bond for at least 3 movies now. That is Skyfall, Spectre and No Time To Die.
Their Molton Chukka Boots impressed me so much that I included them in the Best Chukka Boots of 2021.
The Crockett & Jones No Time To Die Collection
Before we begin the Review I should probably briefly talk about the new James Bond Collection.
Crockett & Jones recently released the “No Time To Die Collection” that includes three models appearing in the film:
- Highbury: A Black Plain Toe Derby on the 348 Last with a City Sole. Also appears in Skyfall (2012)
- James: A Premium Black Wholecut from the Handgrade Collection on the 348 Last. Comes with high end 007 themed shoe trees
- Molton: A Rugged Chukka Boot in Dark Brown Roughout Suede on the 336 Last and today’s Review Pair
What I like about this collection is that it shows they are considerate of the environments James Bond finds himself in. For the more dense, wild scenes in Norway the Molton is more appropriate for example.
In fact this is what inspired me to try them and write this in the first place!
Tip: If you enjoy this article and would love a bigger guide about all James Bond Shoes let me know in the comments!
Crockett & Jones Molton Specifications
It is customary at Misiu Academy to introduce each Shoe through a detailed specifications list:
- Brand: Crockett & Jones
- Model: Molton
- Style: Chukka Boots
- Collection: Men’s Main Line – No Time To Die Special
- Leather: Roughout Suede
- Color: Dark Brown
- Eyelets: 3 Blind
- Last: 336
- Sole: Dainite Rubber
- Lining: Genuine Leather
- Construction: Fudged Storm Welt
- Origin: 100% England
- Price: $549.99 at The Noble Shoe
A very good price for a Crockett & Jones shoe honestly and quite affordable. More on that later but for now it’s time to discuss the Molton.
Tips: Not sure what Roughout Suede or Storm Welt means? I recommend reading my Ultimate Guide to Shoe Leather and Types of Shoe Construction!
Initial Impressions
When I start contemplating a Review I usually take a step back and observe the shoes.
I try to understand what emotions they bring out of me and what feature they might have that captivates me.
One can argue that this shoe in particular is in many ways just a plain Chukka Boot in design.
However, when you look more closely the Crockett & Jones Molton has three distinct features that make it an interesting pair of James Bond Shoes:
- The Choice of Last
- The Choice of Leather
- Construction Details
I will analyze everything individually in the following sections. We often overlook design elements and the reason behind them.
The Norway scenes in No Time To Die show a woodland environment with a peat-covered terrain. It should give you a hint about the durability and properties of this leather.
Additionally when you inspect the Molton you have a rather blunt boxy last and what I call a “zipper” storm welt.
Lastly, if you wonder if you get anything extra with the James Bond Shoes Main Collection the answer is no. You get your classic green Crockett & Jones Box and branded shoe bags.
I mentioned before that the box’s durability is rather average although the shoe bags are excellent with weighted edges.
Let’s delve deeper into things.
Leather Quality | Roughout Suede
Crockett & Jones and most retailers refer to Roughout Suede as “age defying” and it seems they are right.
You would be excused to mistake this with rougher calf leather in fact due to it’s nonexistent suede nap and smoother texture.
Roughout Suede has many different names with Reverse Suede the most common.
While most suede leathers come from splitting the skin in the middle (hence the term split suede) roughout is the fleshy part of the skin turned upside down.
In simple terms, picture Roughout Suede as the skin of your body but the fleshy part (underside) is visible instead.
While this might be Dark Brown you might initially think it is a mixture of green and grey. Roughout Suede has a dense, hardwearing waxy layer especially in the toe and backseam areas.
As I mentioned before it has almost no nap unlike regular suede and a very rugged appearance. Expect leathers like these to develop a lot of character with age.
Crockett & Jones uses excellent leather and the quality on the Molton is no exception. It is in fact much more impressive to see the boots in real life than just look at pictures.
Construction | The “Zipper” Storm Welt
I heard many descriptions of this type of welt such as fudged or indented.
It really is a regular Storm Welt honestly but it has the appearance of teeth from a zipper. Which is why I like calling it “Zipper” Storm Welt!
Personally I think this is a very smart move here and that the Molton would look horrific in this last with a regular Storm Welt.
You could say this gives the Shoes a certain “James Bond” factor too! Unless I am wrong this is purely an aesthetic change with no functionality or effect on the welt’s waterproofness.
While the most important part is the actual welt that ensures you can resole your shoes, this small aesthetic change compliments the rugged look of the boots.
Excellent thinking by the design team at Crockett & Jones and certainly a unique looking model.
The Crockett & Jones 336 Last
A very interesting element of the Molton James Bond Shoes is the choice of last.
We already know their purpose and design direction but the last can always be spot, wrong or controversial. But how does Crockett & Jones describe their 336 Last?
Launched in April 1999, the 336 last is a well-balanced main collection last, with standard ‘E’ fitting measurements and good tread width. The blunt square toe will result in the wearer’s toes sitting relatively close to the front of the shoe, but the shape gives a commanding look and feel working well with hearty Derby shoes and boots with storm welts.
Very interesting isn’t it? I had no idea the 336 Last was that old (though the boxy look of the front hints to the 90’s trend) but you also see what they might work well on.
It is not exactly the most pleasing looking last if you enjoy more elegant toe shapes. Crockett & Jones describes it as a blunt square toe shape and it is spot on I would say.
Quite the boxy shape but it works surprisingly well and as you will see later is rather comfortable too.
Dainite Sole | Like Tanks!
You would be mad to expect anything else than a rubber sole on these Chukka Boots. Rugged, boxy and casual should say enough.
And what better than the Dainite Sole Crockett & Jones uses. It’s an absolute unit and a tank of a sole really.
Try knocking on it with your knuckles it is really high quality and should last you a while. It’s also rather thick and has a distinct brown/reddish midsole part for a nice contrast.
The studs (which always remind me of octopus suckers!) are grippy for me though some people mention they are slippery. My advice is if Dainite usually works for you then you will love these boots.
What I found very interesting was how symmetrical the positioning of the studs was from the stitching. If you pay attention you will also notice the nails along the heel stack.
The Molton’s Stitching
Chukka Boots don’t often have a lot of stitching due to the nature of the design.
Understandable since it only has a few pieces of leather to stitch together. Depending on the design of each boot you might get some more.
Here however you have basic stitching along the facing, inner lining and the backseam which is straight up and of course the welt.
It is therefore important that those few areas have good stitching. Crockett & Jones excels at this and even though many models look uninspiring they have undeniably consistent stitching.
The Molton pair I handled is no different with good quality across the board. The welt in particular is really good in about 10 pairs I handled so far (at the time of writing).
Visually the facing area has single stitching which turns into double down at the quarters with an unusual discrete 90 Degree corner in between.
Inner Lining
We often overlook inner lining as we don’t have often much to say here. Usually companies use genuine leather with an orange, natural tint and that’s it.
Apart from the basics which are the product name and details or the branded insole there’s really one thing to note.
I really like how Crockett & Jones pays attention to the trimming and aesthetics of the top part of the lining. You know the part at the top of the shaft/shoe that is visible and joins it with the uppers.
If you remember my CNES Shoemaker Review (Link Here) I noticed how it that part could be better. The Brits tend to do a good job here!
Sizing Advice
Sizing is always a tricky part when it comes to online shoe purchases.
Can you imagine James Bond wearing shoes that don’t fit and hurt in every step let alone running or jumping? I guess not!
The 336 Last by Crockett & Jones seemed initially hard for me to navigate as it was uncharted territory. If you read my reviews you would know I tend to have a little wider feet and hover between UK 7.5 and UK 8.
I would say that their description is correct as I perfectly wear the Molton in UK 8. My feet are very close to the front borderline touching it.
It would be impossible for me to wear them in UK 7.5 since half a size down is usually around 0.4 – 0.5 cm in length and my toes would be crushed.
As far as width goes the 336 is as you might guess a more spacious last on the side with a rather accommodating instep. Small funny detail by the way, looking at the pictures the instep area and the folds look like a nose to me. Do you see that?!
The leather itself seems rather pliable and not overly stiff though I need to wear them for a longer period of time to really see.
My sizing recommendation is to NOT size down and take your REGULAR UK size in Crockett & Jones, Carmina, Meermin or Allen Edmonds.
The Molton is also a casual wintery boot and you will most likely use thicker wool socks too.
Any Negatives?
Hard to say really. The pairs I inspected had good stitching and quality for the price.
The style, leather and boxy toe are certainly not everyone’s cup of tea.
Personally the “nose” like instep I noticed on the previous section is a little off-putting. There was a minor scratch on the left pair right next to the last eyelet. This leather will develop a lot of them however so I don’t see it as a big negative.
Some parts where the facing meets the rest of the uppers could have slightly better finishing as you can see the natural color of the lining. It’s a Chukka Boot though and quite normal.
Quality wise it has everything you want in a sub $500 shoe.
How To Take Care Of Roughout Suede
A part negative is that Information is scarce about how to take care of the leather and I feel Crockett & Jones could do better here.
Roughout Suede is very easy to take care of. All you really need is a gentle suede brush or even a regular brush (just be careful and don’t overdo it).
Of course it is important to use shoe trees and leave the shoes to dry naturally if wet and not near a heat source.
You do not need to condition or wax Roughout Suede. If you do need to condition it you would have to do the inner lining instead.
Think about it! That is the part of the hide that would face outwards in most other shoes!
If you are unsure always reach out to your retailer, Crockett & Jones or an established shoe repair/shoe shiner.
Crockett & Jones Molton Availability
I find it surprising (in a good way) how affordable the Molton can be. You would think it is expensive since it is part of the James Bond Shoes Collection and Crockett & Jones to boot.
This is partly true since if you purchase it from there directly it will cost you a whooping 395 GBP (~$525).
Retailers are much easier to work with as there isn’t as much overhead and you skip the VAT and import taxes.
A quick Google search will point you to most of them, however since I stock this boot your support will be appreciated!
You can find the Crockett & Jones Molton Chukka Boots in Roughout Suede for just $469.99 at The Noble Shoe!
Buy The Crockett & Jones Molton
How To Wear It – Who Is It For?
The way James Bond wears the shoes in the movie should give you a hint.
Color, construction and the leather combined with the type of shoe dictates its formality and appropriateness in most occasions.
The Chukka Boot is inherently a casual shoe worn with jeans and chinos. With a more rugged look and durable leather it is also a great 3 Season Boot (Spring/Autumn/Winter) but can really shine in colder weather.
Nice earth tones mesh well with cooler trousers and more street outfits.
If you like shoes that patina naturally and develop character over time the Molton is a great affordable option. Roughout leather will cost you 50-60$ less than the calf equivalent in many occasions.
Of course if you are the type that wears exclusively formal suits or clothes this is the wrong choice.
Always think about your outfit, style and versatility before you make a purchase. Unless you are the totally street rugged type and don’t have the basics this would not be a priority.
I guess that if you want to feel like part of the No Time To Die Movie and want to wear James Bond’s Shoes this is also a good incentive!
No Time To…Write
What started as a short article ended up being a massive one as usual! Ah the life as a hobby fashion blogger!
Who am I kidding I enjoy it greatly! Quite honestly this is a great casual boot with a superb price for a Crockett & Jones and licensed movie shoe.
You would argue that “hey you sell it of course you will promote it!” and you would be partly right. I do sell it at The Noble Shoe but I also sell the Lonsdale which I find more mind-numbing than a lobotomy.
For me it is more important that you invest in good shoes that will last you a lifetime whatever the brand.
The next article will be after Christmas so Merry Christmas to you all! Please consider Subscribing for more content and I will love to hear your feedback in the comments.
Thank you for reading,
Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy
