Green Suede Goodness
While dark purple is probably my favorite color, I love dark green in clothes and shoes.
A very underrated color in my opinion, which is why I chose to add these Olive Green Chukka Boots by Passus to my collection.
This is the second pair from Passus I get to Review and my first personal pair. Which makes it a great opportunity to expand on fit but also test their suede quality.
In today’s article I will be looking at the Passus Shoes Oliver X Chukka Boots model.
Who Is Passus Shoes?
Since I already discussed most of the background in the previous Review (Link Here), I will be brief and straight to the point this time around.
Passus Shoes is a relatively new shoemaking brand from Budapest making genuinely handmade shoes in Transylvania.
Their pedigree comes in the form of experience and they bring a good value proposition considering the specs of their models.
A decent range of MTO and RTW shoes in multiple colors, leathers and styles is a good start. Additionally, their shoes are Handwelted, Hand-lasted with a wood-pegged waist.
In my previous Review the shoes impressed me with their quality, build and style but sizing was an issue. Given that they were not my pair, I wanted to try the “right” size and see for myself.
From the models that were in stock, the one that caught my eye was the Oliver X Chukka.
I am a huge fan of Chukka Boots as the ultimate everyday shoe. Olive Green is also one of the nicest colors to pair with navy which I wear a lot.
Therefore it was a no-brainer to pick up this model which has a rather unique styling. Before we discuss all this, here are the specifications:
- Brand: Passus
- Style: Chukka Boots
- Model: Oliver X
- Color: Olive Green
- Leather: Suede
- Construction: Handwelted, Hand-lasted
- Sole: Vibram Commando
- Eyelets: 4
- Last: 2000 Soft Square
- Size: UK 8.5 (US 9.5D/EU 42.5)
- Price: €700 (€889 incl. VAT/$830)
- Origin: Transylvania, Romania
As you can see it’s a rather expensive Chukka Boot especially for a more unusual color.
However you need to remember it’s customizable in around 8 weeks while there are also more conservative colors.
One example is the regular Oliver which looks great in Russian Hatch Grain.
Unboxing & Delivery
I covered this section in the previous Review so I will reuse some assets.
Passus Shoes uses UPS to delivery which was very fast I must say. Only one day from Budapest to Sweden.
There was a slight mishap with the delivery driver leaving my parcel in the office across the street.
As far as the box goes it is quite simplistic. Apart from your shoes you get a very nice sturdy box, nice turquoise shoe bags and a 2 year warranty.
In this case I found lasted shoe trees unnecessary since the leather was suede and not calf.
Chukka Boots are generally quite standard types of shoes that leave little room to innovate.
You usually get 2/3 Eyelets and the classic plain toe design for the most part. In some cases some experiment with a split-toe apron design but it’s quite rare.
In other words, it’s a rather delicate proposition to try and change the formula with your aesthetic choices.
The Oliver X not only has a more unusual color but also a very sharp soft square last and a chunky commando sole.
This is a style that is easy to get wrong but looks great in my opinion when done right. Norman Vilalta is one other shoemaker that likes such design elements in his shoes.
However I personally feel that this looks really nice. I think that Passus did a good job putting the Oliver in the 2000 Last as it would look like a steam boat from the 1800’s on a rounder one.
There a few design elements such as the longer styling of the hockey stick facing that are up for debate. But with a subtle contrasting welt and a refined brute look, it’s a shoe I like looking at.
Very interestingly it also comes with 4 eyelets which looks well considering the proportions of the facing.
Not bad at all!
In a rather novel move due to content overload, I managed to wear the shoes 3 times before the review!
Quite often leather looks great when the shoes are new but after a few wears it looks like your cat had some fun with them. Looking at you Morjas.
Time and wear are the true benchmarks of leather quality, even though you can get a good feeling initially.
And I can say that the Suede Passus uses is excellent so far. I am yet to discover which tannery it comes from but I reached out for a quote.
It has a very short nap that reminds me of goat suede. It is not particularly soft however it is quite smooth. Gently run your hand across and the color changes as you brush it.
I feel that this type of nap will be easier to maintain, while the toe looks to be more waxed.
Nothing bad to say so far, good quality, looks great on feet and no imperfections anywhere or discoloration.
Tip: Learn more about the Types of Shoe Leather Here!
After 3 days of full wear they still look brand new with virtually no wear on the sole. The sole in particular seems very durable and I look forward to seeing how long it lasts.
That’s what someone would expect from a high-end Handwelted and Hand-lasted shoe though. Cycling through the visible components I cannot visibly see an area where they cut corners.
The only true way to judge a construction is once again time or cutting them in half.
It certainly is better than your run of the mill Goodyear Welted shoe and the price reflects that.
In other words the Oliver X looks and handles like a solid shoe. Very solid structure around the side and a surprisingly unstructured shaft which is totally awesome.
Honestly I don’t think you can go wrong with Passus when it comes to construction.
Welt & Stitching
The stitching is as clean as you would expect at this price point.
Stylistically Passus went for a longer hockey stick facing that runs all the way down to the welt. I suppose it could have been shorter but I don’t mind it.
You get double stitching at most points and a straight backseam.
The welt itself has a more natural/brown color to it and it’s a nice subtle contrast. Personally I like very much how it divides the uppers from the sole in a tasteful way.
Not the highest SPI in the world but frankly I stopped caring as it’s mostly a gimmicky buzzword. Foster & Son for example quotes “14 SPI welt wheel”. What does that even mean or how does that help?
In any case, what I mean by all this is that the stitching is nice and clean without too much fluff.
Lastly, I cannot comment on the sole stitching as they probably use adhesive to add the Vibram piece to the rest of the sole.
The Vibram Commando Sole
Vibram has a reputation for some of the toughest, high quality rubber soles in the industry.
While I have yet to go through a regular sole so far, these are like tanks. They have the tractor sole outer part and a studded diamond pattern in the middle for extra grip.
I like those very much though it can get rather annoying when little stones stick in between during winter.
As aforementioned this looks to be an added piece on the sole so no stitching is visible.
Chunkier in appearance and certainly taller and thicker. The heel is 3 cm tall in total (1.18 inches) while the rest of the sole 1.5 cm (0.59 inches).
Lining & Laces
In the previous Review I mentioned how I disliked the laces of the Tom Derby.
Too thin and extremely long, you needed to lace a very tight Berluti knot to make it work. These however are much better in my opinion.
Flat laces with the appropriate length and as you can see very easy to lace and maintain.
It sure helps that there are 4 eyelets here and a good choice for those that might have instep issues or gaped lacing. The lower stitched facing doesn’t show the lining as much either which is nice.
As for the lining itself it’s similar to the Tom with nice leather but one visible difference. There is a suede strip in the same suede color that runs down the heel.
More importantly the top of the shaft is quite unstructured and easy to handle. Trimming on the top is nice and smooth and makes me wonder what more could you ask at these prices.
Sizing & Fit | The 2000 Last
One of the main reasons I am writing this review was to discuss proper sizing.
If you remember on the previous Review the 2000 Last was overwhelmingly narrow at the 5th metatarsal. My little foot folded under and it was super uncomfortable.
I speculated that half a size up would be the right choice for this. Turns out that I was right and this is a much more pleasant experience.
Instead of my regular UK 8 I instead chose UK 8.5 (US 9.5D) which is what you would do for Gaziano & Girling Deco/TG73, some Edward Green and Antonio Meccariello Soft Square.
The shoes cup my heel nicely without too much pressure and this is also the case with the instep. Snug but not uncomfortable.
However the most important change was the widest point. I must admit that there is still a tiny bit of pressure on my small toe but nothing truly uncomfortable.
Another update came directly from Passus Shoes after my previous feedback. At the time of writing they are working at adding a little bit of extra width in the 2000 Last which will be great.
Therefore my advice is to size up half from your regular UK (Saint Crispin’s, Carmina Rain, Crockett & Jones etc.) or size down only half from your regular US sizing.
Wearing them for 3 days in a row was a good way to judge the comfort of these shoes.
In fact, I am wearing them right now as I am typing this article. I walked around 15 km in them and had no discomfort or excessive break in period.
They have some decent support for my heal and ball though the large Vibram Sole might feel stiff for some.
One of the main reasons these were comfortable was the shaft. It’s very unstructured unlike most boots and a blessing for your ankles.
So smooth and pliable and if you have larger ankles like me it’s absolutely great. Why don’t more companies do this?
Overall if you find your proper size in the 2000 Last it can be rather comfortable to wear.
I will be using them often as a daily driver for sure.
How To Wear Green Shoes?
Here’s a question I hear a lot but also rather self explanatory.
Dark Green is very easy to match whether as an accessory or clothing articles. It can be more tricky when it comes to shoes but that’s usually for more bold emerald colors.
These however are not only olive green (a very versatile color especially for trousers) but suede as well. It gives them a nice muted appearance if you get what I mean.
Chukka Boots are not the type of shoes you wear with formal suits. They are better suited (pun intended) for jeans, chinos and some flannel trousers.
Due to the suede texture the Oliver X has potential when it comes to matching with flannel. My choices would be classic colors like Navy, certain shades of grey, brown and beige/khaki for spring and summer.
They look particularly nice with denim and it will be an easy “lazy” combination for everyday wear.
In other words, don’t be afraid of versatile colors. It’s a great way to spice up your wardrobe if you have the basics.
As always, here is the Video Review if you prefer watching and a closer look! Don’t forget to Subscribe!
Passus Shoes Review | Conclusions
Passus is certainly on the right track when it comes to their offerings and value.
Great construction and leather from the best tanneries combined with a refined last and customization. They do need to work a bit on their website and customer attentiveness however.
Regardless, they seem to welcome feedback and make changes such as the upcoming width adjustment on the 2000 Last.
Other than that, these are good shoes that will last a long, long time and perfect for those that look for a step up from the classic machine welted shoes out there. At half the price of Saint Crispin’s they are also better value for your money.
That brings me to the end of the Passus Shoes Oliver X Suede Chukka Boots Review! I hope you enjoyed this slightly shorter “straight to the point” version.
Let me know what you think about Passus, Suede and Green Shoes in the comments down below!
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Thank you for reading,