Mind-Blowing Chukka Boots
Sometimes you just have to take a step back and enjoy something as beautiful as these Paolo Scafora Tyrolese Chukkas.
And this is the case for today’s article, as I had the privilege of spending a few days with them.
Treat this less as a Review and more as a chance to see something rare since I already have a few Paolo Scafora ones in the blog.
I will still talk about and show you as much as I can though!
Let’s get going.
Story Time
I will not spend too much time talking about Paolo Scafora again.
If you want to read more about him you can check the previous Reviews (Link Here).
All you need to know is that he is one of the best shoemakers in the world from Italy.
A few months ago, one of my good friends asked me if we could make something really wild at The Noble Shoe.
Chukka Boots but with Tyrolese construction and the finest Russian Calf leather by Horween in a trademark Bordeaux color.
We sourced the leather and to my surprise the shoes arrived just as I moved to Italy.
Yes by the way, this is the first ever article post from my new home and country in Florence!
Mike kindly allowed me to keep the boots for a little in order to make some photos and videos.
Big thanks to Mike and all of you readers and shoe lovers that make such unique shoes and support the shop.
Specifications
Stories are not why we are here though so let’s get cracking!
Beginning with the specifications of these Paolo Scafora Tyrolese Chukka Boots:
- Brand: Paolo Scafora
- Model: Art. ST54
- Style: Chukka Boots
- Last: ATR
- Leather: Horween Russian Calf
- Color: Bordeaux
- Construction: 360 Tyrolese
- Sole: Vibram Diamante City Sole
- Size: UK 8.5 (US 9.5)
- Origin: 100% Italy
- Price: ~$2500
Very juicy specs including an exciting new last for me, a new type of city sole, leather and including lasted boot trees.
The price is really high in this case, because it also includes a leather surcharge and a single MTO fee.
This model will be available via The Noble Shoe as a limited exclusive soon.
More info on that towards the end of the article!
First Impressions
Quite pointless speaking about unboxing these, since it’s the same high end experience of Paolo Scafora.
However I do want to mention the anticipation and excitement I felt while taking these out of their shoe bags.
Whether you like Norwegian or braided stitched constructions, these boots have an aura of glamour and awe.
I spent a good 5 minutes admiring them and taking some quick photos to share with friends.
In its core this is nothing but a classic 3 eyelet Chukka Boot but at the same time so much more.
A truly rare construction, phenomenal leather and possibly the best Bordeaux color in the market.
If you end up buying such special shoes, I urge you to take a moment an observe the little details.
For example, how Paolo Scafora subtly gives the thread a slight tint that matches the upper color.
This is one of the nicest Chukka Boots I’ve ever seen and I think the pictures speak for themselves.
Horween Russian Calf
If you read my Types of Shoe Leather Guides you probably understood that most grain patterns on calf leather are prints (embossed).
When you essentially get the Scotchgrain pattern (or grain, country calf etc.) and make it tighter or more discrete, you end up with Hatchgrain.
Now, there are different versions such as pin grain, Hatchgrain, Utah calf, Russian Calf (Russian Replica) and some others.
The essence is the same however with this tighter grid pattern.
Today’s leather comes from the famous Chicago Tannery Horween and is pretty much an attempt to imitate the world famous (for shoe lovers) Russian Reindeer Leather.
I suppose in order to understand the idea behind the Russian Replica we need to talk about Russian Reindeer.
However let’s briefly touch upon the qualities of Horween’s offering.
It’s vegetable tanned in the traditional ways, with a slow 4 month tanning process in pits without chemicals.
The tanneries infuse willow and oak bark liquors and afterwards apply birch oil to give it some resistant qualities and special aroma.
Obviously, at the end they dye and emboss the pattern on the leather to replicate the effect.
From Paolo Scafora and at those prices I generally expect the best and this one does not fail to deliver.
Unlike the underwhelming Saint Crispin’s but similar to the Petru & Claymoor, this leather is magnificent.
The smell, rich color, distribution of the grain and presentation are lovely.
The Bordeaux finishing is also a trademark Paolo Scafora color and one of the richest, most vibrant burgundy colors in the market.
Some say that with time Russian Calf might lose some of its vibrancy but that is quite normal as the excess fats disappears over regular use.
The Original Russian Reindeer Leather
If we are going to talk about the original Russian Reindeer leather I probably need a whole separate article.
One of the most exclusive, rare and finite leather resources on the planet.
Hundreds of years ago, this leather with its distinctive cross hatch pattern was really popular and sought after.
A material known for its durability and ability to withstand insects and weather, it was a great choice for the military as well.
While doing research for this, I found out that for unknown reasons production of this leather stopped around the time of the Russian Revolution.
How did this get its name though?
Back in 1786 the ship Metta Catharina sailed from Saint Petersburg laden with hemp and leather towards Genoa.
Due to averse weather conditions while docked in the port of Plymouth the ship sank but the currents transported it elsewhere.
Almost 200 years later in 1973 a local diving club found the shipwreck.
Astonishingly, there was some original Russian Leather left in good condition and this explains the rarity and premium price.
Via the conjoint efforts of Russian translators, archivists and manuscripts the tanneries managed to create a replica that has the qualities and appearance of the original.
What a story, imagine being the person that discovers such a treasure.
Paolo Scafora Tyrolese Construction
Paolo Scafora is mainly a Bespoke Shoemaker, but has a proper RTW/MTO Line.
He can also do pretty much every possible construction however his trademark one is the Norwegian.
All RTW shoes are hand-welted and hand-lasted with a machine stitched sole, but for a surcharge they can of course sew it by hand.
There are a lot of similar constructions and names, but the Norwegian has a visible braided double stitch with what seems to be a thicker thread.
I am not familiar with the exact details of the Tyrolese yet so I reached out to Paolo Scafora asking for an explanation.
It appears to have a third row of stitching that seems to be decorative but means that it takes more time and effort to make.
This is a 360 construction and looking at it excites me for the future.
This is the reason I am learning shoemaking, to produce masterpieces, complicated or simple works of art for people.
Usually a bulky construction, Paolo Scafora applies such a finesse to it that it won’t appear as such.
I might have mentioned how he also slightly tints the thread to match the uppers, giving it a slightly lower profile.
Any talk about stitches per inch, durability and other gimmicks are irrelevant at this level.
These shoes will probably outlast you. No need to say more, just enjoy the pictures!
Vibram Diamante Sole
Mike asked me if we could put a rubber sole on the boots without making them look chunkier.
Looking through the Paolo Scafora options, their take on city soles was super appealing.
A Vibram city sole with a sort of rhomboid shape that resembles diamonds, hence the name Diamante.
It’s great visually and grippy, durable even though you miss on the marvelous embossed Scafora family crest leather variants have.
If you are in an urban environment or it rains often, this is a great option that will not compromise the profile.
Paolo Scafora ATR Last
As aforementioned, this was my first encounter with the ATR Last.
I have now experience with multiple Paolo Scafora Lasts:
- DOOR
- VOLA
- BUK
- Q
- R
- SIRIO
And of course now the ATR.
For the most part, most Paolo Scafora Lasts are either extremely chiseled with an aggressive square (such as the Q) or sharp almond shapes (DOOR, VOLA, SIRIO, R).
The ATR really falls into the latter category as you can see from the pictures.
It’s an extremely sharp almond shaped last with structured sides, an aggressive vamp drop and a sudden narrower front end.
It’s extremely elegant but I think the elongation needs the right model and style to really shine.
Plain Toe shoes such as certain Derbies, Chukka Boots and Chelsea boots or Jodhpurs are prime candidates for this.
Obviously, liking or disliking a shape is a personal preference.
If you are more into rounder lasts like some of my clients, this shape will not be of interest.
Personally I like it very much.
Tip: Not sure about the Types of Dress Shoes? Got You Covered!
ATR Last Sizing
I am still waiting for proper data and feedback from Mike so stay tuned for a possible update.
However, with the exception of the SIRIO and Q, all Paolo Scafora lasts run half a size larger.
Germano (Paolo’s right hand man) mentioned that it also runs half a size larger.
So the general consensus is that you should size down half from your regular UK or 1.5 size from your regular US sizing.
Since I have vast amounts of data including Mike’s, it was super easy for me to size him.
In any case, always reach out to the retailer or the brand to find out more when you are about to splash so much money on shoes.
Availability
This is a very premium model and make up that is not readily available.
The only way to get them is to make an MTO and that leaves you with limited options.
You can of course ask Paolo Scafora directly to make them or ask your favorite retailer.
There are limited retailers out there and I am proud (and honored) to be one of them.
I will be soon creating a limited run of 4-6 pairs exclusively for my shop, waiving the need for the MTO surcharge.
However that means that this is first come first serve.
If you have genuine interest, expect a price of around $2000 – $2200 including shipping and lasted boot trees.
You can contact me at [email protected] if you wish to learn more.
My advice is to support your favorite retailer, as you indirectly also support the maker.
Do I Need Chest Hair To Wear These?
Well, the truth is that you are more likely to sprout chest hair when you wear these.
In other words, while these are certainly a statement and require confidence to wear for the first times, you should not afraid them.
You probably have the disposable income, a sizeable wardrobe and shoe collection and want something more unique.
And this is truly a unique piece that will actually appear much more discrete when on your feet.
One of my favorite pairs is the Norwegian Double Monk Boots which I wear often in daily situations a few times a month.
A Chukka Boot is the absolute perfect piece for at least 3 seasons of the year and so versatile you can wear it with anything but a business suit.
Lighter or darker colored denim and chinos will allow the boots to look spectacular.
Don’t forget that burgundy is one of the easiest colors to match out there since it works with blue, olive, beige or grey.
If you lack the budget or have less than 5-10 core shoes in your collection you should probably build on those first.
Conclusion: I Love My Job
And that concludes this showcase of the Paolo Scafora Tyrolese Chukka Boots!
The most exciting aspect of my job and blogging career is to create and present new things.
To come up with an idea and see it fleshed out, including the joy of people.
In posts such as these, I just want to show you my efforts and things you might never see again elsewhere.
Stay tuned for more exciting upcoming reviews from brands such as Sons of Henrey, Yearn Shoemaker and a visit to the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
I will see you next week, stay classy and wear good shoes!
Thank you for reading,
Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy
