Summer Means Linen!
I was on the market for a good linen shirt for quite a while. Until now I had only 1 which was the basis of my old article about the best summer fabrics. After a lot of trial and error I finally found an Italian Brand that can give me the perfect fit and customization. This is my second “Review of the Apposta Made to Measure Shirt Program” and one I was very excited about!
I chose a bold but gorgeous turquoise linen fabric that turned out to be extremely versatile and vibrant. We will discuss fit, fabric and little details that you should be aware of when designing your shirt with Apposta.
Grab some Iced Tea or Greek Frappe since it’s scorching hot and let’s begin!
Embrace The Wrinkles
One of the fabrics I learned to love in the past 2 years is Linen. Coming from Greece any kind of open weave breathable fabric is the perfect tool to combat heat. However I was initially skeptical about owning a suit which doesn’t have that smooth worsted wool feeling. Plus I live in Sweden where it rarely gets as hot.
The best way to experiment with the fabric then was to start with a shirt. And that’s how I chose the dark green linen shirt from the aforementioned article above. The sense of freedom, open weave and breathability was enough to make me a fan and also sweat much less in the process.
Since linen comes from the plant fibers of the flax plant it has some different properties than cotton or wool. It generally dries quicker, is quite strong and absorbent but on the other hand is prone to creasing and has a rougher texture. Additionally, with the exception of heavy Irish Linen it’s rather lightweight and see-through.
Many people dislike linen due to the wrinkling, which you can reduce with a cotton/linen blend. But the truth is you should embrace linen for its properties and what it really is: A breathable, light and airy wrinkly charming fabric.
Apposta Is My Go-To Shirt Brand
After struggling to find the perfect shirt sleeve length and fit, I stumbled upon Apposta. An Italian Made to Measure Shirtmaker with thousands of fabric options. And I am not exaggerating they have over 4000 fabrics to choose from!
For a detailed guide I recommend checking out the first Apposta Review but nonetheless here is the short version!
You customize your shirt completely by choosing every single detail from fabric to collar and cuffs. Afterwards you measure your body or an already well-fitting shirt with some very helpful visual guides and voila. Your new Made to Measure Apposta Shirt is on its way in around 3 weeks. Specifically you can choose:
- Fabric: 4002 (at the time of writing)
- Sleeve: Long or Short
- Cuff Style: 8 Options
- Pockets: 7 Options
- Fit: 6 Different Fits from Regular to Extra Slim & Sporty
- Collar: 29 (!) Different Options
- Monogram
- Placket
- Buttons: 7 Options with Different Materials or Stitching
Prices begin as low as 69 Euros and honestly the choice of fabrics is simply staggering. Choosing what you want is going to be the biggest issue! Of course, you can save your measurements and create a new shirt later on much faster.
After a terrible experience with your average shirt brands and a terrible experience with T.M. Lewin I can’t see myself buying shirts from anywhere else. I should also mention that I bought the linen shirt of today’s review (and a light pink poplin) with my own money and it was not a review article like the first one. I might be a reviewer but It’s also my duty to support small businesses with great customer support and fantastic products.
Onto the show now!
The Fabric – Go Bold Or Go Home
Now I already knew that I want a linen shirt but the question was what color to get. The first one that caught my eye was this gorgeous bold Turquoise fabric by Canclini.
It was so beautifully vibrant but I was hesitant about the boldness of the color. However no matter how hard I tried to find something else I kept coming back to this one.
All this for the great price of €119 and further reduced by 20% with the Code AP2864!
Unboxing & Delivery
Since I ordered 2 shirts they came packed neatly on a bigger box. As always Apposta folded them very nicely and once again included a poplin surgical mask. A really nice touch and thoughtfulness during the Covid-19 times while it’s worth mentioning that they sanitize each shirt before shipping.
I placed my order on 01/06/2020 and received the shirts after about 4 weeks. Apposta usually promises you 2-3 weeks but honestly it is summer and a weird time to live right now and I don’t mind waiting for a quality product.
One thing I am yet to figure out is shipping. Apposta makes the shirts in Italy, but every time I get a shipping notification it’s from France. I will eventually get to the bottom of this!
The Canclini Fabric
I wore this shirt at least 10 times during the last 20 which is a testament to how much I loved it! It really is so vibrant and unique but at the same time not over the top. Canclini is a famous Italian Mill specializing in shirts since 1925 with a very elaborate website.
This particular fabric has a weave called “Zephyr” and some speculate it refers to Zephyrus. Zephyrus was a Greek God of the West Wind and often considered the gentlest of winds and a messenger of spring. It is rather fitting as the Zephyr weave is lightweight and breathable with equal warp and weft.
It’s fabulous to look at and has the characteristic dry, coarser texture of linen with those tiny white loose little spots popping up around the fabric which give you depth and a stark reminder that this is linen alright!
I Love This Collar
I have a new love for good Button Down Collars and it’s definitely a style that should be in your wardrobe. Apposta’s has more than just one set of Button Down styles but this one is one of my favorites. Long and drapes so well with that wavy roll for an excellent formal or casual look.
Personally I think this is a great option for this kind of shirt since it accentuates the casual feel of the fabric but on the same time looks classy and composed.
It’s also very robust and comfortable and won’t feel cheap.
Stitching & Details
One of the things that impressed me when I got my first shirt from Apposta was the immaculate stitching. You can choose how close or far away you want the AMF to be from the edges but I left it at default.
No loose threads, no inconsistencies or crooked lines. I am not an expert by any means so I cannot nit pick so if you can spot something I am missing please let me know. However I do base my review on my thoughts and hands on experience with the fabric and the shirt as a whole.
While I skipped on the monogram during the first time I felt it was a great opportunity to use it here. You can choose between three spots for your monogram but in my opinion the cuff is a good spot. It’s very nicely woven into the fabric in italics and a detail people will notice. Think of it like saying “My shirt is good and has custom details“.
Last time I also mentioned that the buttons were a little thinner but it is probably due to them being MOPs. In retrospective I could choose a thicker one with some extra cross stitching however I feel the fabric draws enough attention already.
When it comes to the cuffs this time I got a single button cuff instead of double. It was a small mistake I made, but more on that on the fit section.
Fit & Small Adjustments
I was very happy with how the first shirt fit, but there were a couple of areas I wanted to improve.
First of all due to the slightly slanted nature of my shoulders I had some fabric pulling around my neck. I messaged Alessia from Apposta and she made a note for all my new shirts. And I am happy to report that they fixed the problem!
Now let’s move on to the rest of the shirt. While I left most of the measurements similar to last time I did make some slight alterations. I considered the length of the sleeve and added about 0.1 inch or so however as aforementioned I also chose single button cuff.
This created a small problem since I can’t fasten my cuff as much as I want and the sleeve is wider and appears longer. The solution will be to re-measure my cuff if I use single button fastening or simply move the button myself. For reference if I chose a two button cuff it would be perfect.
One thing I found a little strange is that the shirt feels longer even though I input the same length. In addition it also feels a little roomier but my guess is it has to do with the fabric. So if you choose a linen counterpart and want a tighter fit you might want to consider a slimmer cut.
The sleeves now appear longer but I took shrinking into account and I haven’t moved the button yet.
How To Wear Turquoise?
To be fair this was my first thought initially but you know what? It’s actually super easy and versatile! I personally believe it looks smashing with dark denim and Sneakers but just as good with a lighter tan/khaki pair of chinos. Or you can mix it up with a pair of nice shorts and Suede Tassel Loafers.
Recently I got my hands on a Cotton Solaro suit by Suitsupply in a light khaki color and they match perfectly.
I will most likely make a review later on about this suit but you can see how the subtle herringbone cottoned texture compliments the linen fabric rather well. If you want to see more of the suit and shirt combo check out the latest “YouTube Video on How To Take Care Of Patina Shoes“!
Caring For Your Linen Fabric
Maintaining Linen is rather straightforward and does not differ much compared to cotton. Use a gentle machine cycle and little to no detergent as you want to protect the fibers. Water should be cold or lukewarm at most and I wouldn’t put it in the dryer or near any heat source. You don’t want to damage or stiffen up the fibers. Let it hand or lay flat and dry naturally, preferably on a towel.
Since linen’s properties make it crease you don’t need to iron it. Afterwards hang it and store in a nice cool place and voila!
It Will Be Hard To Buy Shirts Elsewhere
I am generally a man that likes structure and only does radical change when I need to. But when I find something that satisfies me in every way I tend to stick to it for a long time. Honestly I would be very hard-pressed to buy a shirt from another maker right now. Superb value, 20% Discount (Checkout Code AP2864), Excellent Quality, Quick Delivery, Tons of Customization & Friendly Service. What more do you need?
This sums up the Review of my Turquoise Linen Made to Measure Shirt by Apposta which need I remind you I paid with my own money and is not a gift! I only support brands that I believe in and use myself and they more than earned it. In fact, I would be glad to be their ambassador if they asked me!
Enjoyed this? Let me know what you think about the color and how you would wear it! And why not, give them a chance yourselves! In the meantime consider sharing or Subscribing if you are new here!
Thank you for reading,
Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy
Great article and shirt!!! I enjoyed this post
Thanks Adrian!
Hi Kostas – that a great looking vibrant shirt and I agree with you article on Apposta as I’m now into my 4th shirt from them
I was initially doubtful about getting my sizing right with my fist shirt but all was good in the end. I used my body sizing rather than cloning a shirt and chose Regular BD, rounded cuffs with a single MOP and no patch pocket
Although not a big fan of linen as I find some fabrics too hot??? and rough on my skin I am tempted to try the Canclini linen knowing I will be receiving a quality shirt from Apposta
Hi Dave!
I hope all is well! Honestly it really depends on the person. I have met some people that can’t wear cashmere on their skin as they find it itchy, when it’s the smoother of them all. As I wrote somewhere in the article linen can be also heavy (like heavy Irish linen tweed)so a lighter warp/weft will ensure breathability. It’s one of the reasons I chose the zephyr weave, it’s lightweight and let’s a lot of air in 🙂
What are your thoughts on Proper Cloth?
How does Proper Cloth compare to Apposta to you?
Hi Bryan,
I have no hands on experience with proper cloth yet. However I have heard they are one of the best. A good source of information is probably their official affiliate thread on Styleforum. I will eventually give them a try, but I am sure you would be happy if you tried them out.
Hi Kostas
I love your articles and well explained opinion.
And yes, I know “different strokes for different folks” but….
Please do not have your monogram on the shirt cuff, it is simply swanky (I hope google-translator works fine).
Never ever the monogram anywhere else than “lower left chest” (from the wearer´s point of view).
Please forgive me my directness.
Greetings
Julian
Hi Julian,
Nice to see you here! Don’t worry, no offense taken. I have never had a monogram elsewhere before as I found it too busy. Yes it can be quite tacky and even distasteful in some occasions, especially on light colored fabrics. I think it’s alright on darker colored ones such as this with a very casual nature. I do the tests so the rest can see how it looks and decide for themselves!
Great article Kostas. It’s a pleasure to read your reviews. Thanks!
Thank you Gianni!
Well look, I understand if you don’t want to leave this comment up, as you are affiliated with Apposta. In my experience, it has been a waste of time. I placed a 750+ euro order, the communication wasn’t really there. I waited for two weeks to be sent a trial shirt, which they haven’t even started on. So that’s it. I’m onto other brands now. I did get my refund which I’m happy about, but I’m just really disappointed. I was hoping they’d be my go-to for mens dress shirts. Now I’m having scramble across the UK to find one who’s of good value. Most of the ones in London is overpriced, because you’re having to pay for their businesses located there, and we all know how expensive the cost of living is in London. Just so bitter from this experience.
Hi Daniel, I’d never remove a comment just because it is a bad experience someone had with a brand i have bought. And I say bought because including apposta i buy all my shirts such as this linen one. Since my latest articles however their customer service seems to have gone a bit downhill so I am more weary. The important thing is they refunded you. Look at proper cloth?
Hi Kostas, they did refund me, so it was appreciated. It was very annoying. I think it could be a one off case, but again for it to happen to me is very annoying. Sometimes its the way customer services can reply can really tick me off. The lack of “we can prioritise this and remedy this right away” bothered me greatly, since I wanted their shirts in the first place. No other MTM company had the styles I wanted, which was a Thomas Mason double twisted fabric in stripes of different colors. I have looked everywhere for this and can’t find it. So I’m resorting to tailors in London. Time matters a lot to me and given how hot its getting, and the fact these are all summer shirts is annoying to me.
I waited two weeks, so then it’d be another two weeks for the trial shirt, then another two weeks for the bulk of my order. I think the key issues is this:
– Lack of eagerness in wanting to retain me after the problem has been realised
– Lack of communication for when there is a problem. They sort of just send an email out and assume you will read it and leave it as is, while also taking your money and sitting on it doing nothing.
I feel like I should mention that the reason why they didn’t bother to fufill the order was because they asked for measurements. I provided this to them, that was clarified. But it was because I wanted a 6th shirt. So in many ways it makes me very annoyed because I wished I shutted up about wanting to buy their stuff (seems counterintuitive to their business really). I paid for 5 shirts. They said they could do a trial shirt and I was happy with that. I check back two weeks later, they didn’t make the trial shirt, nor the 5 shirts. They did nothing. Because they wanted to know if I was buying a 6th shirt as I inquired about that. What would make them not do it if I paid them already for the 5 shirts… It just sets a bad impression on me that they didn’t want to make my shirts unless I paid more. I thought my order was weird enough as is, given its a first time order, for 5 shirts. Most would do one shirt. I have to say, mentally I was thinking “Oh yeah, they’ll think I’m a millionaire and totally want to make me happy” lol.
Maybe life would be more simpler if I was normal ???? lol
I did check out proper cloth btw
They didn’t get back to me two weeks after I placed my order. They didn’t start manufacturing the trial shirt. So I have to give them a skip unfortunately. Bad communications, they didn’t even seem eager to retain me as a customer which really annoyed me.
It was a 750+ euro order, my first time ordering of them.
Didn’t realise my comment actually went through. So now theres a duplicate… Whoops!
So an update on my case. In case you weren’t aware, they did refund my order immediately so that was appreciated. But still annoyed since they were going to be my go-to manufacturer for dress shirts. They called me directly and offered a free trial shirt and that it has gone into production. Considering they did refund me. I agreed to it. So I’m happy to try this brand out again, will post soon upon the fitting of the shirt, then a final one on my 5 shirt order.
Also I was so cheeky as to message the co-founder directly before the remedy was proposed. And I messaged him a really sassy comment saying “oh well I’m going for your competitors bye cause you didn’t care about my first 750+ euro order”, Well obviously not word for word. I mean I figured, got nothing to lose.
So I received communication from one of the sales assistant via telephone. They were really nice when calling me and offered a trial shirt in the measurements provided, and that I get to keep it for free, while also having my refund. I received the shirt two weeks later. I’m very happy with it. The fit is almost perfect, certainly wearable. Just that I’d make the shoulders a little wider on it.
I’m really impressed with the fit, and I liked that they picked the features I really wanted, even though its a trial shirt. Such as a button down collar and such.
Going to ask that they re-do the order again. Can’t just exploit their goodwill.