An interesting experiment
Today I decided to write an article comparing a pair of Suitsupply trousers and the same one from Lanieri.
Both cut from the same cloth, in the same color but with many differences.
It was an interesting experiment that was a pleasant surprise.
It will also be a nice review for Lanieri and a test for their consistency or improvement.
A little backstory
Last week, I wrote a nice simple article talking about trouser rise.
Quite coincidentally, a day later my new pants from Lanieri arrived.
Back in 2018 I bought a Dark Green Double Breasted Suit from Suitsupply’s Emerald Green Capsule.
Despite its flaws, I loved it to death and was gutted when after 1.5 years and just 30 wears it ripped at the crotch.
A recurring theme with my Suitsupply items has been buttons breaking, loose stitching and sketchy reinforcement.
For 2 years I looked for the same fabric to make new trousers since a Green Double Breasted Jacket is virtually useless alone.
Then 1 month ago I stumbled upon Lanieri’s fabrics and voila!
The fabric looked similar, was flannel and the code was almost identical.
I ordered a swatch to test and to my delight it was the same.
And that is how I ordered today’s comparison trousers.
Disclaimer: Lanieri sent me the first suit for free as a review item. However I purchased these trousers and the second suit myself for full price.
I am not entirely sure how to lay this out, but I guess I will do the same for both in one line.
- Brand: Suitsupply/Lanieri
- Color: Dark Green
- Material: Pure Wool (Flannel)
- Fabric Code: 504.801-541/504.901-541
- Mill: Vitale Barberis Canonico
- Made In; China/Italy
- Price: $240/€160 ($180)
As you can see the specs are exactly the same, barring the modifications on the Lanieri.
You see, the Suitsupply version was part of a RTW Suit which cost about $485 at the time.
If you go into the Suitsupply custom made program and select pure wool flannel, the cost is $240.
The Lanieri is also Made To Measure so I had extra modifications I will talk about in detail later.
For example, it has a high rise, side adjusters, cuffs and custom lining.
Really, there is not much to say here because the two fabrics are identical.
From the color, to the texture and perceived weight it feels the same.
That is at least good news and shows that if you can figure out the fabric code, it becomes easier to choose.
However, the eagle eyed reader might spotted that there is a tiny difference in the fabric code.
Instead of 801 it is 901. I think the only difference when feeling the fabrics is that the Lanieri is slightly heavier.
Lanieri quotes this as 340 gr/m actually which is pretty nice.
The Suitsupply version feels rather thin at times even if it is flannel.
Flannel is not the most durable fabric but it has this adorable fuzzy, enveloping texture.
Due to how they brush it, it creates a lot of friction in stressed areas.
Actually the most likely area to rip is the crotch, or just between your legs.
When I look at the Suitsupply trousers, the thinner fabric and the tension made it worse.
Despite that, I find it unacceptable that they ripped after what was 30 wears.
My thoughts are that since this is a low rise trouser based on their Brescia model it affected the durability.
I always had to pull my trousers up and that created extra pressure on the crotch area.
If you keep pulling a fabric and stretching it to its limits it will break sooner than later.
Lesson learned, which is why I went for a high rise on the Lanieri.
We will see how that one will fare, so hopefully I will not update this in 2 years in anger.
The difference of $60 is quite substantial and one would think Suitsupply should be better at.
I spent a lot of time looking at the seams, pockets, stitching and pattern matching.
Or small details like the seam at the back of the after dinner split.
For the most part. everything looks similar especially when one looks at the back pockets.
You can notice that Lanieri has 2 single seams above each pocket while Suitsupply only 1.
Also at the front of the zipper, the seam is more visible in the Lanieri but also has a bigger chain stitch.
On the other hand the Suitsupply version favors a more thin invisible seam.
Some seams inside look more polished in the Lanieri but really it is not something that should make a structural difference.
Suitsupply’s seam looks more straight and slightly better only at the bottom of the after dinner split.
In this section I will not directly compare, since one is RTW and another MTM but rather discuss.
For the longest time now I decided not to wear belts. Just like watches, I don’t like wearing them.
So all the trousers that I buy should ideally have side adjusters.
Obviously, the Suitsupply version came with belt loops which were useless for me.
Therefore I used the side adjusters option from Lanieri, just like I did last time.
In all honesty, I think it is their weakest point since they are way too big and flap around a little.
A more elegant, discreet version would be ideal but nothing that will annoy me.
The Lanieri trousers also have a more comfortable, spacious pocket in my opinion.
A small detail is the custom inner lining, which of course you can also change during Suitsupply’s Custom Made program.
However, be extremely careful because certain linings in their jackets are polyester and there was no info about it.
For example, in a light blue double breasted suit I chose an alpaca lining which I didn’t know was polyester.
Then you have the adjustment of the rise of the trousers.
We established the Suitsupply version, but there is a small trick to the Lanieri one.
You cannot choose the rise and the only way is to add a note in your cart with the desired effect.
If I remember right you can choose in 1.5 cm increments up to a 6 cm total.
The easiest way to display the difference in fit of various rises would be having the same garment with variations.
If I measure the trousers while worn, the Suitsupply one sits a massive 6 cm under the Lanieri.
That shows in multiple areas, where you will see how the Lanieri is a marked improvement.
To begin with, I have no discomfort at the crotch area.
Secondly, since the trousers sit higher up there is no gaping of the pockets, as opposed to the Suitsupply ones that sit on the hips.
Especially if you have wide hips, low rise trousers will make your pockets pop like antenna ears.
Thirdly, the sheer comfort and elongated look that they create in my silhouette.
Differences continue with the shirt fit, since they generally sit better and tucked in instead of flopping with “rippled waves”.
I forgot to mention that due to the actual pocket space (even more if you use pleats) a phone or wallet is much less visible or bulky.
Due to my bow legs (or footballer legs) condition where my legs have the shape of a half moon I will always have issues with the lower leg.
The Suitsupply trousers feel a bit flat on the bottom, whereas the Lanieri came back slightly too long.
Even though I used the same measurements, they are too long possible due to the cuffs.
Specifically, I estimate having to shorten them by 2 cm for the idea fit.
That is not a problem since Lanieri will cover alteration costs up to a point.
Most likely, I will ask for store credit instead of a refund since this is a very cheap alteration.
Other than the fabric issue and low durability, I don’t have anything bad to say about Suitsupply trousers quality wise.
However they would be too expensive for a similar or lesser result.
Back in the day, I commissioned a MTM Brown Flannel Trouser which I fear will also rip at the crotch soon.
Those cost me almost 300 Euros ($330) which I can now make at Lanieri for $60 less.
Same fabric, good service, good quality and made in Italy instead of China.
Of course, it makes more sense for most people to go into a Suitsupply store worldwide than risk it online.
I should also remind you that these trousers, an upcoming suit and possibly some blue chinos were bought with my own money and no sponsorship or review request.
Overall, I am over the moon with the trousers and the fact that I can finally wear it as a set again.
What should I do with the ruined Suitsupply trousers?
There might be a chance I turn them into a tote bag but we will see!
And that concludes the article comparing the (same) Suitsupply and Lanieri trousers.
It’s nice to have alternatives and I look forward to trying out other brands such as Black Lapel or Oliver Wicks.
This time I tried to keep the Suitsupply bashing at a minimum since I still think they are decent clothes.
They just don’t work for me anymore.
But at the same time, you cannot look at the pictures I posted and not agree that the Lanieri is an improvement fit wise.
In any case, I will see you next week with something special and in the near future a book Review.
Thank you for reading,
Thanks for the clothes reviews. Very helpful.
Thank you for this review man fr!
Thanks for reading ?
Thank for this article. Deeply informative. You gave me an idea that I can get extra pants for my Havana suit that I really like. Do you know what the last 3 numbers on the fabric code means?
Glad you found it helpful. I was gutted that the trousers ripped, but when they are so low rise and you put so much pressure on the crotch of course they will break faster.
If you buy from Lanieri, use the code (though it might be a minimum purchase) so you get a discount.
The entire numbers are the fabric code, it is not just the last 3. To find the same fabric you need to find the same code in most cases.
In mine, the difference could be that they updated to a newer code or fabric.