Carlos Santos Wingtip Oxford in Brown Calf Review | The Noble Shoe
Meet The 7273 – A Versatile Classic Wingtip Oxford
Here we go gentlemen! Welcome to the Review of the Carlos Santos 7273 Wingtip Oxford. For those that don’t remember, we finally have our own Webshop! The Noble Shoe is a premier destination for exclusive styles by the famous Portuguese shoemaker.
In our article a few weeks ago I promised I would go through all the remaining styles on offer. It is a great opportunity for you that are seeking information about lasts and models of Carlos Santos.
I was never a huge fan of Wingtips but I thought this design was brilliant. A very classic shoe that you can dress up or down effortlessly. It is also brown which means it will look as good with your jeans as with a navy suit. And above everything, it has a super competitive price!
Excited? So am I to bring this to you! Let’s go!
Previous Carlos Santos Reviews
For those of you unfamiliar with the Brand, Carlos Santos is a legendary Shoemaker from Portugal. They have excellent value, rich patinas and a big gamma or models.
Now, I already have 4 Reviews of various models. Coincidentally (totally not!) they are part of The Noble Shoe Collection:
- 6942 Double Monk-Straps in Wine Shadow
- 9381 Derby in Coimbra
- 8866 Lace-Up Boots in Coimbra
- Handgrade Adelaide Oxford in Guimaraes
Don’t worry, we will cover Suede and light colors soon as well!
What’s In Our Magic Box Of Specifications?
Specifications and pictures are vital for first impressions when you buy shoes online.
- Brand: Carlos Santos
- Model: Wingtip Oxford
- Style Reference: 7273
- Last: 397 Soft Almond Toe
- Width: Regular
- Size: UK 7 (US 8/EU 41)
- Uppers: Brown Calfskin
- Eyelets: 5 Blind
- Sole: Single Leather
- Lining: Genuine Leather
- Construction: Goodyear Welted 270°
- Price: $349 (£279/€309/3299 SEK) including VAT
- Shop: The Noble Shoe
Tip: The prices in the shop are without VAT. If you are outside the EU/EEA that’s just $279! For EU/EEA the VAT is 25% and appears during country selection.
What’s In The Box?
The Carlos Santos Wingtip Oxford comes in the original box with a lot of goodies. You get some nice textured dust bags, a shoehorn with the company logo, and a small leaflet.
The box is excellent and sturdy, with a black color and a pattern that resembles birdseye. Under the cap there is a message from Carlos while you have access to quick, useful information on the side.
I will not spoil it, but you also get something very personal from The Noble Shoe!
What Is A Wingtip?
This is a great time to talk a bit about terminology. A Wingtip is usually an Oxford but can also be a Derby Shoe. The former has a closed lacing system while the latter an open. Here’s where it gets interesting.
Wingtips have distinctive perforations on the uppers, quarters and toes which make them a full brogue shoe. The toe area specifically has a medallion and the broguing creates a W shape. These extensions (or wings as some say) continue along both sides of the shoe until the middle part where the ball of the foot is. Summing up:
- All Wingtips are Full Brogues (Blind Brogues have no medallion)
- Wingtips can be Oxfords or Derbies
Additionally, there are two other commonly mixed terms. A Longwing is the same as a Wingtip with the difference that the “wings” continue to the back of the foot and meet at the heel. More often than not, they are Derbies however.
Lastly, the Austerity Brogue resembles the Wingtip but has no perforations and more subtle appearance.
Tip: Read more about Dress Shoes in our article.
Style & Design
I am not really a big fan of large country shoes with huge welts and protruding soles. With the exception of the Heinrich Dinkelacker Buda I like my shoes slim and sleek. The Carlos Santos Wingtip Oxford retains this but also ticks all the boxes for a full brogue.
The perforations are subtle without large serrated edges. The toes are burnished in classic Santos fashion while there is some nice fudging along the welt. Medium Brown was an excellent choice for versatility since brogues are by nature more informal.
The idea is that you would feel comfortable wearing these with jeans or a nice suit without looking out of place or attracting too much attention. Add to that the comfortable leather sole for city walking of course!
As always, I will look at all the individual areas one by one.
Now, having my own shop has an advantage. I get to check at least 10 pairs of each style, which means I can monitor consistency and quality. Since my first purchase from Carlos Santos I have been impressed with all that. The shoes always come with a high, lustrous shine, neat packaging and good build quality.
This is focused on my own pair however I always cross reference with the rest.
Toe Area – A Tidy Medallion
Starting off with the toes! I am a big fan of the subtle burnishing. The medallion is very good, with small consistent holes and even spacing between them. The W where the Cap Toe usually is is also quite subtle.
Everything checks out and I really like the shape of the 397 Last. More on that later!
Lacing & Throat
Another detail I like very much is the flat laces. Very clean and minimalist and blend well with the rest of the shoe. This is not a very loud country brogue so I expected no less.
The (almost) U shape of the facing reminds me of the Adelaides and the 5 eyelets are blind keeping everything tidy. Funny how that last sentence sounds!
Broguing – Holes Everywhere!
You definitely need a section to talk about broguing! It is probably one of the hardest things to do consistently here for a production shoe. One mistake and everything is ruined or visible.
Thankfully everything checks out! I could not find something bad to say. The stitching is totally on point and honestly it is a good looking shoe!
I paid special attention to the wings, back-seam and of course around the facing/throat.
Since Wingtips’ broguing meet at the back to form the back-seam I will include this area here. It is probably the only point on the left shoe that was not great. The curve on the stitching is not even 100%. Of course, nobody will notice unless they have OCD like me and it will not affect your daily wear.
Nonetheless, I must mention it about this particular sample. I must remind you to think at the price point however!
Carlos Santos sources its leather from the French Tanneries Du Puy and D’Annonay. Both very well-respected with a long history of leatherworking.
It is medium brown without any Patina and an aniline finish. When I compare my Carlos Santos shoes with say Loake 1880 there is no question which is superior. The Aldwych after 1.5 year feels dry and stiff, while my monks are still vibrant and smooth.
The same applies here. Not a single blemish on both shoes with a superb shine out of the box. Look closely and you can see the individual pores of the calfskin.
How’s The Welt & Overall Stitching?
This is another thing that they do well. It is not as tight as Enzo Bonafe or TLB but is elegant enough. All Carlos Santos shoes I carry are Goodyear Welted and you can resole them without a problem.
Sometimes you find a small loose thread here and there. It is quite normal. I noticed one around the backseam for example but this is really nitpicking. Someone with more knowledge on shoes might see something I don’t.
Tip: Not sure what is Goodyear Welt? Ding ding article about shoe construction!
Always Take A Look At The Sole!
For functionality, Dainite soles are my favorite city sole along with Commando. My friend Bojan from ZEB Shoes talks fondly about Vibram so I have to check it eventually.
The 7273 Wingtip has a single leather sole however. I just feel it matches the shoe better. It has open channel stitching and a half rubber insert at the heel.
From my understanding the heel is from stacked leather and has about 12 nails to support it. On the bottom you also get a glimpse of the size and the Carlos Santos brand name.
What Lies Inside?
The lining is from genuine leather with a suede feel around the edges. The model style reference is also on the sides along with the sizing.
Lastly, the insole is also genuine leather and has a soft feel to it.
The 397 Last
My first experience with the 397 last! So far I tried the 234, 387, 389 and 401! How would someone describe this last?
I would say it is a gently elongated last with a soft-almond toe. I sure like the overall shape since it widens and then goes to a tighter waist.
Sizing & Fit
For most people sizing Carlos Santos shoes is easy. All the popular lasts fit almost the same and generally TTS (True To Size). I once more got the UK 7 and it fits perfectly with just enough room on the toes and the sides.
My advice is go with your regular Carmina Rain/Simpson, Cheaney or Crockett & Jones size. Remember to size down a full US size to convert to UK!
Are They Comfortable?
My personal experience with Carlos Santos is that my heel will scratch on the first 2-3 wears or the sides might be a little snugger.
All leather shoes require a little break-in period though and it is completely normal. While these fit very well, I advise wearing them for a few hours initially to allow them to form to your feet.
The instep is slightly more generous which I like but I do not recommend if you have extremely wide feet. I like this last!
Should I Buy A Wingtip?
A hard question to answer as always. If you look for a shoe that will look great with chinos, denim and suits this is a great option. Brown is a color that compliments blue exceptionally well but will also work with gray and green.
Good looking and not as loud as country brogues, it is perfect for those that do not work full-time in a very formal business environment. A jack of all trades if you want. If you detest broguing, that is obviously a no-no but the wingtip is a classic shoe that will always be in style.
Lastly, if you never wear dress shoes and need one pair, a black/dark brown oxford should probably be your first choice (for graduation, funerals etc.).
Drawing towards the end of the Carlos Santos 7273 Wingtip Oxford Review I can see how much I have changed and evolved. I learned to appreciate different styles and develop my taste. Which makes me glad to include this in my collection!
A great, versatile piece fit for any man’s wardrobe. Whether you are casual or formal this will be a good companion. With very good construction and top materials for a very competitive price, it is a brilliant shoe. For those outside EU, it is just $279 plus shipping.
I am more curious to see what do you all think! Are you fans of brogues or wingtips? Do you prefer this style or the more chunky country versions?
That brings us to the end of this article. Subscribe to stay up to date because we have a ton of upcoming content like this.
Thank you for reading,