Yeossal Shoes Review | Thomson Split-Toe Derby In Janus Brown Suede

Finally Some Suede

Welcome to my Review of my first pair of Yeossal Shoes.

Not only that, but also my first pair of Split-Toe Derbies and first suede dress shoes.

Which means we got a lot to talk about this fledgling Singaporean Brand and their excellent value for money.

To do that, join me in yet another in-depth review of their Thomson model and find out if you should put Yeossal in your bucket list.

Let’s begin!

Who Is Yeossal?

As aforementioned, Yeossal is a relatively new brand out of Singapore specializing mostly in menswear and men’s shoes.

Immediately I can recommend an improvement on their new website, as I cannot find an about us or history page.

Since it’s pretty much a few good friends that in 2016 decided to launch a dedicated shoe store, it’s a nice story to tell.

One of the things that put them on the map was the introduction of the rather hard to find Antonio Meccariello shoes.

In fact, this is how I first learned about them back in the day as I was looking for my own.

Antonio even white labeled some of their shoes until a few years ago and it surely helped with credibility and solidify their reputation amongst enthusiasts.

Since those early days, Yeossal evolved into a more tailored, small batch niche store and expanded into other areas.

You can now buy tailored shirts, high waisted trousers, trademark safari jackets and polos and of course customize your shoes.

Yeossal Shoes Range

Back in the day, Yeossal offered a few different shoe brands.

Antonio Meccariello, Y by Yeossal (Standard and Prestige), Corno Blu and probably some other one I forgot.

Nowadays, they focus more on a core capsule collection and their main in-house brand.

To sum up, the shoes you can buy at Yeossal now are:

• TLB Mallorca: Great entry level Goodyear Welted Shoes (Regular & Artista Lines)
• Oriental: Japanese Goodyear Welted Brand (Newly announced)
• Yeossal: In-house hand-welted shoes (Made in China)

While there might be not so many brands to choose from, the range of models and customization potential is large and makes up for it.

Specifically, Yeossal Shoes have a lot of customization with 7 lasts to choose from, a lot of leathers and patinas and even small details such as spade soles or heel shapes.

This honestly deserves its own separate article, where I could go through the options list so today instead I will focus on the actual shoes and elaborate where I need to.

The Yeossal MTO Process

I lied, I will actually have to talk a bit about the process so you feel more familiar with it.

When you begin your MTO journey, you will do that by visiting the Custom Handgrade Shoes Page.

At the time of writing you can select from 43 Models which is quite awesome.

Then you select the leather, which will will be calf, suede or grain divided into 5 options such as museum calf, patina or hatch grain.

Yeossal offers even custom patinas in case you want something specific for a small upcharge.

Then the next step is selecting your favorite last, with 7 choices. If you are unsure, I recommend checking out the Yeossal Lasts Page.

Lining and Sole color, as well as the type and shape of sole you want is next. I am so glad Yeossal offers spade soles.

Very interestingly, you can also customize the type of heel (Straight or Pitched) and even the heel height.

For those in certain regions that want to manage their budget better, there is even a choice to pay in a few installments.

It’s a rather flexible and easy experience and works better in their revamped website.

Specifications | Yeossal Thomson Split-Toe Derby

We finally arrive at the main menu.

Now that you have an overview of how the MTO Process works, let me show you what I decided to make:

• Brand: Yeossal
• Model: Thomson
• Style: Split-Toe Derby
• Leather: Janus Reverse Suede (+$45 USD)
• Tannery: C.F. Stead
• Color: Dark Brown
• Last: SG65
• Construction: Hand-Welted & Hand-Lasted
• Lining Color: Dark Brown
• Sole Waist: Beveled Fiddleback (+$65 USD)
• Sole Shape: Spade
• Edge Color: Black
• Heel: Straight
• Size: UK 8 (US 9D)
• Fitting: Regular Width
• Shoe Trees: Lasted Pinot Noir (+$65 USD)
• Modifications: Triumph Toe Plates (+$30 USD)
• Origin: Made in China
• Price: $755 USD ($1030 SGD)

As you can see, there are a ton of optional extras that can really impact the final price.

For the things you get though, it’s still a remarkable price.

One massive problem I have with the new Yeossal Website is that I cannot find any currency selector.

The prices are in Singaporean Dollars (SGD) and you would be excused if you thought it was USD.

In the old website, there was a small drop down menu allowing you to change currency. I strongly recommend Yeossal to re-implement that feature.

The lead time for MTO shoes seems to be around 12-16 weeks but of course it can vary.

Now it’s time to discuss the actual shoes!

Understanding My Selection

For the past 12 months I purged my shoe collection, selling most of the lower end shoes and investing in higher end.

My collection consists of mostly oxfords, monk straps and chukkas or boots.

The only Derby is my Norman Vilalta Calder which made me realize there is one thing I should go for next.

I didn’t have a split-toe derby or any dress shoe in suede so this was a great opportunity to combine both.

And since I am one for versatility and flexibility dark brown was my main choice.

The spade sole was just a personal preference that ended up nicer than I expected as you will see.

Delivery & Unboxing

I placed my order on the 25th of June and received the shoes on August 17.

My turnaround was super quick which is great, just bear in mind it will most likely take longer.

The box is actually really cool and good!

It has a sliding mechanism, is super sturdy and high quality and I like the small leather handle they added to pull them out.

Inside there’s some high quality yellow branded paper plus you get some extra laces.

The shoe bags are simply amazing. In a gold/bronze sort of caramel color and what seems to be velour material. Incredibly soft!

Initial Impressions

Not gonna lie, I thought the shoes looked good.

A classic, “Edward Green Dover”-like Split-Toe Derby with a handsewn apron, hidden split and 5 eyelets.

I was quite happy with my spade sole choice, as it gave a more aggressive shape to the waist of the shoes.

The suede had a short nap, smooth texture and the fiddleback is superb for the money.

It’s also a very pliable shoe, with structure only in the right places.

I tried to come up with some negatives, but the nitpicking will come later.

A good looking shoe, with great leather and a very versatile piece for every day wear and easy matchmaking.

Of course, taste differs between people but the beauty of MTO is that you can make whatever you want.

Leather Quality

My experience in the suede department is not big, with my only points of hands on reference being Carlos Santos, Cobbler Union and Crockett & Jones.

I will not try to compare the Yeossal shoes to the others, but I can tell you that the suede is really lovely.

Yeossal uses reputable tanneries and in this case, the Reverse Janus Suede comes from the famed C.F. Stead Tannery.

It has a short, smooth nap which is a treat to inspect up close.

I cannot find anything negative to say about the leather and it only remains to pass the test of time.

Construction Quality

What is astonishing for the price, is that Yeossal Shoes are both hand-welted and hand-lasted.

Not only that, but they also have a handsewn apron and hand-stitched beveled waist.

In those prices, other than certain small individual workshops, only Vass and Meermin’s Linea Maestro offer similar features to a certain extent.

Then again, I would rather lick a gangrenous wound than buy Meermin.

Quite astonishing that you can buy such shoes for $750 (with all extras) when a machine made Edward Green can cost double that.

What’s interesting is that the shoes are also rather lightweight, or at least feel so.

At first glance, everything looks perfect but it will require further inspection up close.

Stitching Quality

Now here’s a section where we can talk more about things.

As you saw in the intro, Yeossal Shoes are hand-welted, hand-lasted and in certain occasions Norwegian welted or with handsewn aprons.

For the apron, they use a traditional boar’s bristle needle (Antonio Meccariello does this on the Centurion) and it’s a really good, tidy job.

Same with the invisible split seam at the front.

The welt is also really tight and seamless if you try to find the welt joint.

At the back there’s no traditional backseam of course, just a larger panel.

I struggle to find something bad to say about this section.

One can argue that the apron stitching is slightly inconsistent but it’s done by hand and has a charm to it.

Honestly, a very good job.

Lining & Interior

Let me start by saying I really like the choice of flat laces.

I also like that there is an option to change the lining color, as the natural/orange classic one bores me.

On the inside, there’s a small handwritten circle with extra stitching showcasing the model, last and size.

There’s a branded half-insole and a much rougher off-white footbed that looked a little dirty at some points.

An interesting fact is that you can also see the bumps that are a result of hand-welting. If you remember the Archibald London controversy on SF you will know what I mean.

The trimming on the lining is pretty nice and it seems to have a more tapered heel.

Yeossal Spade Sole

I really like how the spade sole turned out.

With a really tight waist and excellent fiddleback, it’s truly a stunner at this price point.

The front end has an aggressive shape, cutting in sharply at the midway point.

What’s also astonishing is how clean the hidden channel is. You really have to look very close to see any markings.

Behold by the way, I found something “negative” to say.

The Triumph toe plate is flush when you look from the side, but there is a tiny, tiny part uneven at the bottom.

It’s like a small bump and it wouldn’t affect your daily life, but I don’t know maybe you have expensive mahogany wood floors and you are worried.

But going back to the actual sole, it’s a marvel.

If you made a step up from a lower tier shoe, it will blow you away even though it’s an insignificant detail only you will see.

Of course, if you prefer you can have a normal sole, or a rounder version instead.

Yeossal Lasted Shoe Trees

I always recommend getting lasted shoe trees for your higher end shoes especially at these prices.

The Yeossal trees come in a variety of color and have a very low profile with a massive drop at the middle.

They have a very smooth finish, sort of like the lacquered finish I’ve seen in Crockett & Jones Handgrade trees.

Mine have a purple color to them, with a bit of a more rustic finish and a hollowed mid-point.

They are by no means travel light, but it does shave a substantial amount of weight.

I do like the bigger handle, it’s so much easier to grip than those knobs most trees have.

Tip: Learn More about the different Shoe Trees.

The Yeossal SG65 Last

In my opinion the SG65 is the true definition of a soft square last.

Not entirely square, but not round either with more focus on the former.

Let’s take a look at how Yeossal describes the SG65.

Quite accurate, though I am not sure about the elevated toe box.

The shoe has a very low profile, but this might be accentuated by the sharp drop at the instep.

From all the lasts they have, the SG65 is the one that appeals to me the most.

Not sure why, I have a thing for sharp square shapes and aggressive toe boxes.

In the end, it’s just a matter of taste and you have many options.

Personally, I believe it looks superb with a spade sole as everything aligns perfectly.

Fit & Comfort

Now the thing is, to assess comfort it takes a few wears.

And because I want to preserve the shoes and soles for the photos in the beginning, I didn’t really do it before.

So instead, I will be wearing them for 4-5 times inside the house for hours at a time to get used to them.

I have some very interesting findings to report honestly.

To begin with, these shoes fit me really well and true to my UK 8 size.

Everybody was telling me they run large and roomy and that I should size down half, or others had to return their shoes.

This is totally not the case with me, but now that I think about it I understand better why.

My instep is higher (especially on the right foot) so this last is also higher than normal, but not too much.

Now, Yeossal recommends taking your regular UK size but I am really reluctant to recommend that.

It’s been a while since I had trouble recommending a size on a pair of shoes.

I would say that if you have a narrower foot, or a lower instep and less voluminous foot, size down half from your usual UK.

Don’t forget that a wider F fitting is also available in case you need the extra room.

As always, reach out to Yeossal and ask for advice.

Are There Any Negatives?

The more you go to the higher end, the less negatives you would expect I suppose.

Looks aside, which are highly subjective and you can simply make your own make up, there are a few things I will talk about.

The first one is not something that bothers me, but it can bother certain people.

Yeossal shoes are made in China by an unnamed workshop which everybody believes to be Xibao (making Oct. Tenth for Sons of Henrey).

If you don’t like supporting Chinese products for whatever reason, then you will surely find this unappealing.

Personally, I don’t care as it’s a small workshop and they produce genuinely good shoes.

Then you have the slight controversy of design. A lot of the models on Yeossal’s website seem heavily inspired by other high end brands.

I would like them to inject some more creativity (such as with the Neil Spiral Wholecut) but then again, how easy is it to be unique in such a saturated market?

For the actual shoe quality, it’s superb with only minor details I really had to look for.

The toe plates could be installed a tiny bit more flush for example.

Lastly, when I look at the eyelets they are not exactly straight and even at some points and my OCD is flaring.

Mind you that a normal person wouldn’t notice that.

Speaking about the eyelets, I also get the feeling they are a bit too symmetrical or like someone called them, “fat”.

They could possibly benefit from being closer to the lacing gap by a few millimeters? I don’t know maybe, maybe not.

Overall, these are great shoes worth your money if you can get the fit right.

How To Wear Suede Split-Toes

Every time I feel I am repeating myself in this section, mostly because the recommendations are the same.

This is a Split-Toe Derby and a suede one, so you immediately know that this is not something to wear with a formal business suit.

Instead, you should consider the texture and try to pair them accordingly.

For example, denim has texture, flannel has texture and linen has texture.

So there are some classic easy options such as jeans, chinos, dress or casual trousers and the odd casual suit.

As for color matching, they are not so different from a regular calf shoe.

Dark brown is a super versatile color and a good companion for shades of blue, brown, khaki, beige, olive, lighter grey and more.

The good thing is that you can also be more flexible on the top.

Sweaters and knitwear, or a linen, flannel or cotton shirt depending on what you are doing.

Most (if not everything) applies to any form of suede dress shoes without excessive details.

Video Review

And as always, here’s the Video Review if you prefer watching it!

Final Thoughts

I was impressed by these shoes by Yeossal.

Excellent quality, attention to detail, good materials and (for me) fit. It also bridged a specific gap in my collection which is more or less complete now.

I am in no way affiliated with them and can certainly recommend checking them out.

What I’m also interested however is hearing your thoughts in the comments.

If you had a bad or great experience with Yeossal shoes or simply think about trying them, let me know!

See you next week, while I brainstorm what type of content I want to write.

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy