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Paul Sargent Review: Top Tier British Made Shoes

Burgundy ShoesExcellent British Shoes

Welcome to my Review of my first pair of Paul Sargent Shoes.

Formerly known as Alfred Sargent, these shoes are Made in the UK to high specifications.

As you can see from the title the spoilers are out as these are excellent shoes.

However, make sure to read the entire thing and find out why you should support Paul Sargent Shoes.

Let’s begin.

Strange Times, Strange Complications

Once upon a time, there was a historic British Shoemaker called Alfred Sargent.

For reasons that are none of our concerns, Alfred Sargent filed for bankruptcy in early Covid and still exists in some form.

The family behind this however seemingly managed to keep some of the assets and open their own company, Paul Sargent Shoes Ltd.

Taking a look at their lineup you will see a lot of familiar models and names for the reason above.

Given that this is a much smaller, family run operation now facing a myriad of challenges and bootstrapping their way I felt compelled to make a review.

Speaking to Jamie Coker who is my main contact at Paul Sargent, we planned to meet at the London Shoegazing Trunk Show 2023.

We did meet but unfortunately the circumstances were terrible and frankly pissed me of.

Because an undisclosed party essentially threatened them that they should not participate there or else.

We can all speculate who that was, but honestly the past is the past and it’s up to us all to spread the word and help them.

Jamie was more than kind enough to still show up there and present me with my first pair of Paul Sargent Shoes for my Review today.

Knowing that I do not chew my words, this Review is unbiased despite the circumstances and if the shoes were rubbish you know I’d tell.

Luckily, they are fantastic and today I am going to tell you all about them.

Ranges

Before delving into the shoes themselves, I took a quick look at the Paul Sargent Website to identify their ranges.

Don’t be taken aback by their current photography or basic website as this is a small, growing project.

I mean, people buy from Antonio Meccariello’s Website for the love of god!

Paul Sargent make a lot of MTO Shoes and have a small selection of curated RTW Styles.

  • Country Range: A self-explanatory quite casual range of boots and shoes (450 GBP)
  • Exclusive Range: Upping the ante with well-positioned high end dressier shoes (575 GBP)
  • Handgrade Range: The highest quality offering sharp lasts, greater finishing and refined details (960 GBP)

They target all available price points from the mid-range onwards and there is a good selection and flexibility.

Most are MTO and take usually 8-12 weeks delivery.

Important: All prices above include 20% British VAT which would not be applicable elsewhere.

Specifications

Wingtip Oxfords
The Paul Sargent Hunt Wingtip Oxfords in Burgundy

 

Let’s get right into the Review by talking about the specifications of these Paul Sargent Wingtip Oxfords:

  • Brand: Paul Sargent Shoes
  • Model: Hunt
  • Type: Wingtip Oxford
  • Range: Exclusive
  • Leather: Full Grain Calfskin
  • Color: Burgundy Burnished Calf
  • Construction: Goodyear Welted
  • Lining: Leather
  • Sole: Hidden Channel Single Leather
  • Last: 109
  • Width: F (Regular)
  • Size: EU 42 (UK 8/US 9D)
  • Shoe Trees: Sold Separate
  • Origin: Northampton, UK
  • Price Estimate: 575 GBP ($730)

Quite a hefty price as you see but if the product is good it doesn’t matter.

As a disclaimer once more, while I offered to pay they provided me with this Review Pair for free.

Unboxing & First Impressions

I first checked out my new Paul Sargent Shoes in the London Shoegazing Trunk Show 2023.

Though I am more of a fan of more chiseled lasts, I quickly loved the feel and look of the leather as well as the spectacular sole finish.

When I returned back in Italy I had more time to check them out and inspect them properly.

Well, the finishing is exceptional, the shoes have great proportions and a classic design.

You would be excused if you confused them with Crockett & Jones Handgrade.

An impressive first impression for sure.

Leather Quality

Let me begin by the first thing that impressed me after I wore them for my first walk.

I walked about 4 kilometers and when I looked at them just before I took them off, the leather had barely creased.

Pretty Impressive after a full day of wear no?

Of course it did, but very slightly indicating a good fit for my foot and showing early signs that the leather is high quality and should age gracefully.

It is European Full Grain Calf in a burgundy color and burnishing around the edges.

In most cases I find burnishing to give some extra finesse especially at the toe area.

The leather is supple and smooth with a more matte look to it.

Construction & Stitching

This is a bread and butter Goodyear Welt construction with what looks to be a stitched waist.

Many blind waists for mid-range and entry shoes are blake or cemented for the uninitiated.

Structurally it does not matter but it allows for a slimmer profile in the waist area.

Still, these have a lovely beveled round waist and the construction feels very solid.

It’s a robust, well-balanced shoe for sure.

Stitching is top notch in all areas.

Whether you are looking at the closing of the uppers or the welt and joints, Paul Sargent did it with care and precision.

Pretty impressive stuff honestly.

Sole Check

Paul Sargent Sole
The Paul Sargent Sole

Now let’s go to the star of the show which is the sole finishing.

It’s simply sensational in a glossy, matching burgundy high shine finish.

The Paul Sargent Sole after one wear
The Paul Sargent Sole after one wear

For many it will feel like a crime to walk but I’d say it took my first walk out in Florence really well.

The exclusive range uses single leather normal soles but still has a hidden channel.

This channel is executed flawlessly and is not visible and overall the whole thing is high end stuff.

It is however extremely slippery so be extra careful when you take it for a spin for the first time.

Mischellaneous

A quick note that my shoes came with shoe trees that are pretty standard, yet good.

Solid work there and a must have for dress shoes in general.

The interior leather lining is good and the trimming on the top is nice adding to the aesthetics.

I am a big fan of waxed, flat shoe laces and these feel slightly thicker so I might change them.

As for the box itself it has shoe bags and a branded logo and that’s about it.

I cannot comment on the Handgrade Range as I don’t know if something is different.

Last & Fit

Now onto the most important aspect of every article of clothing and footwear which is the fit.

This is the 109 Last with a bit of an almond shape or medium round for some.

Generally not my cup of tea, but it still is aesthetically pleasant and fits these wingtips rather well.

Paul Sargent Shoes
My Paul Sargent Shoes

The last has a slim waist profile and doesn’t to be very elongated.

Putting them on and going out for a first walk was surprisingly comfortable for new shoes.

The fit was really good and among the more comfortable RTW lasts that I tried.

Paul Sargent uses the F Fitting to denote a regular width so don’t get confused in the USA as it corresponds to a D width.

I took my regular UK 8 size and that was the correct choice.

Comfortable width, just the right amount of toe space and an accommodating instep.

There wasn’t a glimpse of heel slip either.

Always check with the respective retailer for fit advice but if you are a UK 8/US 9D/EU 42 for example I would take that size in this last.

How To wear?

If you saw my previous article about my latest acquisition from Lanieri I wore the shoes there for the first time.

It’s a wingtip oxford, making it less formal than a classic cap-toe but I find them to be a very smart, flexible shoe.

The color is burgundy, which is an essential for a minimalist wardrobe and you can combine it with everything.

From dark grey to navy and tan or beige, it will look good.

We live in a strange age where oxfords and jeans aren’t supposed to be a good match.

Honestly, I wouldn’t wear them that way and chinos would be the less formal choice of trousers.

Remember to spruce up your outfit with some good socks and accessories.

Should You Buy Paul Sargent Shoes?

If you are on a new journey or on a tighter budget, you should start in a lower price category of shoes.

I am always an advocate of incrementally taking steps upwards in the shoe hierarchy.

However, if you have a higher budget and are on the market for a really good pair of shoes I highly recommend Paul Sargent Shoes.

I would put their quality and finishing at Crockett & Jones Handgrade levels and even better.

Paul Sargent Hunt Wingtip OxfordsThey have a better looking sole and everything is just as good for a lower price.

I think that’s an exceptional compliment, especially as a person that sells Crockett & Jones Handgrade in their store.

Most importantly, you help a smaller honest company find their feet once more despite the adversities of the times.

Paul Sargent and their shoes are genuinely excellent and more than deserve my endorsement.

If you do decide to check them out, please tell them Kostas from Misiu Academy referred you there.

It might not net you a discount, but I do wish them to know that I did my part to support them.

Conclusions

We reached the end of my Review of these wonderful Wingtip Shoes by Paul Sargent.

Great quality, great people and a really good fit for me.

A little bit on the pricier side for most people, but a very nice alternative in a saturated British market.

What did you think about them?

I am curious to hear your thoughts or experiences with Paul Sargent Shoes.

Until the next time, stay elegant and buy quality over quantity!

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy

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Comments (2)

I really enjoyed the review and in general reading your posts. I’m curious if there is fudging? And do you have any thoughts on how Paul Sargent compares to eg TLB Artista?

PS – on the subject of Northampton shoes, I’ve seen you say you’re not much a fan of Loake 1880 but I’m curious if you’ve tried their Export Grade line? Compared to my Carmina the Export Grade seems like hands down a better shoe.

Hi Arik,

Fudging in all these shoes is decorative. If you notice the close ups on the welt you can spot if there is or not!

I think Paul Sargent is higher quality, but is also more expensive than TLB.

I have seen Loake Export Grade and I do not consider them good value. I prefer Carmina.

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