Carlos Santos GMTO Field Boot in 2 Patinas for the Noble Shoe IG

Misiu Academy

My Shoe Collection 2021: Updates, Reviews, Reflections & Afterthoughts

shoe collection misiu academy 2021

That’s A Lot Of Shoes

Welcome to my late showcase of my current shoe collection as of August 2021.

An article I contemplated writing a long time ago, however with so many changes and new shoes I decided to wait.

After trimming my collection and investing in higher end shoes, I feel I am finally at the point where I am happy with it.

So in today’s article I will talk about a few different things.

First, I will show to you what I currently have and if my opinion changed about some brand or shoe.

But I shall also discuss what my future plans are and if I would do something differently in hindsight.

Lastly, I also have a few more pairs I would like to get rid off and rehome, so it might be your lucky day.

Join me and let’s have some fun at my expense.

Humble Beginnings

My first ever shoes, were the Loake 1880 Aldwych in Mahogany, which I falsely thought was dark brown back then.

It was also my first ever shoe review on the blog, followed by another Loake 1880 Chelsea Boots, the Chatsworth.

The former was a nice entry shoe to the welted shoe world, but I absolutely ended up hating the Chatsworth.

Best Men's Dress Shoes 2019 - Loake 1880 Aldwych Brown

My first ever welted shoe: The Loake 1880 Aldwych Brown

Last year, I managed to sell them and I am totally certain I am done with the brand. The leather was bad, the lasts were too boring and I knew I could do better.

I knew, because I bought my first pair of Carlos Santos, which was the catalyst for me starting The Noble Shoe a year later.

Due to the blog and me being a busy bee, I ended up having a lot of review shoes that enabled me to check out brands I would generally avoid.

Heinrich Dinkelacker was a fantastic shoe I resold this year, while I was sad to let go of the unique Cheaney Shell Cordovan Boots for Pediwear.

On the contrary, I had no regrets getting rid of shoes like CNES, Vahtia, Lethato and even TLB Artista which just didn’t speak to me after a while for some reason.

Now that I am more familiar with better brands and I explored most of them I know where to go and what to do.

Specifically, for my every day value shoes I stick with Carlos Santos and for the rest I rotate my higher end shoes.

Actually, I wouldn’t change my shoe journey at all but would probably spend more time understanding proper fit.

Dress Shoes

I would like to begin with dress shoes first.

It is blatantly obvious that I have a preference for oxfords and monk straps.

An overview of my Dress Shoes Collection

An overview of my Dress Shoes Collection

On the other hand, for reasons I cannot explain I despise the way loafers look on my feet.

You might be surprised to see only a few derbies there and that’s because I recently started collecting a few.

Let’s start though. The list goes from lower to higher price.

1. Carlos Santos 9281 Lazyman Oxford In Guimaraes

Kickstarting my shoe collection with a rather unusual pair but a favorite of mine.

A Lazyman oxford is exactly what it sounds like: Lazy.

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 9281 Lazyman Oxfords

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 9281 Lazyman Oxfords

That’s because it resembles an oxford but due to the flexible side panel is really a slip on.

It still looks great and stylish due to the color and last I chose, so I use it quite often.

I like how it aged, with gentle creasing and a nice patina.

Not your first choice, but if you have the basics or want a dressier loafer alternative you cannot go wrong with a good lazyman.

This model was a previous GMTO at The Noble Shoe so not readily available.

2. Carlos Santos 9899 Handgrade Oxford In Black Calf

Moving on to my only black oxford. What a hubris right?

The truth is that I don’t wear black clothing but every man should have at least one black oxford.

Carlos Santos Black Oxfords

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos Black Oxfords

And I might as well get a great one such as this. It has folded stitching (I call it reverse) and looks absolutely fabulous and clean.

A really formal beautiful choice on the 445 last with a striking look.

For a shoe worn over 20 times it looks fantastic and speaks about the quality of the calf Carlos Santos uses.

Buy At The Noble Shoe ($419.99)

3. Carlos Santos 6942 Handgrade Double Monks In Norte

I have a thing for Double Monk Straps, though Single Monks are growing on me.

But I also have a strange love for navy shoes, an underrated, super versatile color.

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos Double Monks In Norte

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos Double Monks In Norte

These are on the classic 6942 model but a handgrade make up from a previous GMTO so not available anymore.

Finished in Navy Norte Patina and welted on the 401 Last which fits me like a glove.

I like how they age as well but I might consider selling them if a good offer comes in.

Probably would look for around $200 for them in a UK 7.5.

4. Carlos Santos Handgrade Double Monks In Light Norte

Continuing the trend with a more recent acquisition.

Pretty much the same as above but with a couple of twists.

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos Double Monks

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos Double Monks

First of all, these double monks have folded reverse stitching such as the black oxford.

Secondly, these are on the light Norte patina, which is a beautiful lighter shade of blue.

Absolutely gorgeous, one of my go to monk straps these last few months.

Unfortunately not available anywhere.

5. Crockett & Jones Highbury Derby In Black Calf

Ah it took me a while to buy my first Crockett & Jones.

Since I needed a Derby and only had one black shoe, why not go for both?

Crockett Highbury

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Crockett & Jones Highbury Black Calf

Here comes the Crockett & Jones Highbury on the 348 last with a great fit and lovely leather.

Fits like a glove, wears well and above everything looks good and is comfy on a city sole.

An excellent addition to any collection whether you are rebuilding or upgrading.

Buy The Crockett & Jones Highbury ($539.99)

6. Vass Budapest Austerity Brogue In Dark Brown Museum Calf

Moving on with a brand that offers unparalleled value for money.

Vass Budapest offers a blend of contemporary and modern aesthetic but most importantly genuinely handmade shoes.

Vass Austerity Brogue

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Vass Austerity Brogue

No gimmicks, hand-welted, hand-lasted, handsewn shoes with good leather and a variety of lasts and options.

This model is an Austerity Brogue in Dark Brown Museum Calf and on the U Last.

It was a MTO but you can get tons of awesome deals at Vass with big discounts (at the moment of writing).

Check out my Review Here!

7. Yeossal Thomson Split-Toe Derby In Dark Brown Suede

My latest acquisition was the Yeossal Thomson Derby.

A brand you requested me to review a lot, but also a great opportunity for me to finally get a split-toe derby and a suede shoe.

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Yeossal Thomson Suede Derby

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Yeossal Thomson Suede Derby

Two birds one stone right? And what a gorgeous bird this is.

Great shape, fit and details in the MTO piece I commissioned with Yeossal for about $750.

Check out my Review Here!

8. Antonio Meccariello Hastatus II Adelaide Oxford In Navy

There are 3 high end shoe makers I love and Antonio Meccariello from Napoli is one of them.

Incredible shoes, designs and finishing from one of the gentlest, passionate shoemakers out there.

Antoni Meccariello Hastatus

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Antoni Meccariello Hastatus

If you haven’t go check out his Instagram and don’t worry about the terrible website.

The pair I got was on discount by a retailer for 50% off and was a steal but it did come with drier leather.

Nothing that bothers me though, as this is a stunning piece of footwear in navy calf with navy pin grain details.

Along with Austerity Brogues, Adelaide Oxfords are my favorites.

Check out my Review Here!

9. Norman Vilalta Calder Derby In Marron Mediterraneo

And if Meccariello is one of my favorites, Norman Vilalta is the next one.

What an absolutely marvelous shoe I got in the Calder Wingtip Derby.

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Norman Vilalta Calder Derby

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Norman Vilalta Calder Derby

The finishing, the incredible looks for a derby, the shining and how the calf ages is spectacular.

It impressed me so much, I am working on an exclusive deal with Norman for my shop.

I cannot recommend these enough.

Check out my Review Here!

10. Stefano Bemer T6456 Wingtip Oxford In Dark Brown Museum Calf

Ah here we are at the big daddy of shoes.

Legendary Stefano Bemer and specifically from the top end Tradizione line for $2000.

These are sort of a Balmoral Wingtip Oxford with an absolute smashing shape.

Stefano Bemer T6456

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Stefano Bemer T6456 Wingtip Oxford

It’s all due to the gorgeous soft square S Last which makes it look so aggressively Italian.

In all honesty, the leather did not blow me away and takes a shine harder.

This is a shoe I bring out when I really want to feel powerful and well-dressed.

Check out my Review Here!

11. Maftei Vienna Brown Stingray Wholecut Oxford

Finishing off with with the most special pair in my shoe collection.

From legendary Alexandru Maftei in Austria, a fully handmade wholecut oxford in stingray leather.

This was a made to order and after wearing it a bit more, the toe space is kind of limiting for my small toes after some wear.

Stingray shoes

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Maftei Vienna Stingray Wholecuts

However it doesn’t bother me much nor I wear them often for longer periods of time.

The stingray leather is sublime, truly something else and one of my favorite exotics.

It sparkles, doesn’t really crease, needs no maintenance and is an absolute tank.

Something that will stay in my shoe collection for ever.

Check out my Review Here!

Boots

I am also a huge fan of boots and specifically Chukka Boots and Chelsea boots.

An overview of my Boot Collection

An overview of my Boot Collection

You will rarely see me sporting anything such as a service boot with only a few winter casual versions I really love.

Same rules as above apply.

12. Carlos Santos 9156 Field Boots In Petro Shadow

Over the years one of my favorite patinas from Carlos Santos was Petro Shadow.

A teal shade of green and blue mixed in perfection for a versatile color that looks good on anything.

Field Boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 9156 Field Boots

So when I made a GMTO of the Carlos Santos Field Boots I had to make one for me.

Gorgeous boots and a worthy entry in my shoe collection.

I love the looks, the last, the fit and how the color ages.

13. Carlos Santos 1051 Brown Kudu Grain Boots

A recent entry and a very special one.

My first pair of Kudu antelope leather and in brown grain nonetheless.

A very casual winter boot equipped with warm, soft shearling lining from merino wool.

Kudu Grain Boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 1051 Kudu Grain Boots

Add to that the natural storm welt, heavy duty commando sole and you got the perfect winter beater boot.

These will be available for purchase in a few months at The Noble Shoe so stay tuned.

14. Carlos Santos 8865 Hiking Boots In Brown Calf

Speaking about casual, here’s another one but also the last one.

A hiking boot in a mid brown colored calf, the 8865 is a great option for winter because of the reasons in the previous section.

Carlos Santos 8865

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 8865 Hiking Boots

Yes, it also sports shearling lining and is a banger to wear with jeans.

You should all get a shearling lined boot one day it’s like a pillow for your foot.

These are unfortunately not available anymore.

15. Carlos Santos 7902 Chelsea Boots In Dark Brown Suede

I just realized I only have one pair of Chelsea boots.

What a disgrace but don’t worry I am working on it!

These are a classic in dark brown soft suede and perfect for casual every day outfits.

suede chelsea boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 7902 Chelsea Boots In Suede

I wear them a lot and should probably give them some deep cleaning with suede shampoo soon.

Love wearing those as much as I love the comfy softer leather soles they have.

16. Carlos Santos 9380 Split-Toe Boots In Bordo Shadow

The stand out performer of last year was the 9380 Split-Toe Boots.

A new model GMTO I launched and coming soon in stock at The Noble Shoe, these add an apron and split-toe at the front on a “Galwayesque” design.

Carlos Santos 9380 Boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Carlos Santos 9380 Boots In Bordo Shadow

Smashing boots, finished in Burgundy Patina and on a ridgeway sole on the 445 Last.

Beauties, can’t wait to wear them again soon.

17. Septieme Largeur Ernest Johdpur Boots In Green Patina

Moving on to a truly ridiculous shoe in all the right ways.

The boldest color in my shoe collection, this is sort of an emerald green patina by Septieme Largeur.

shoe collection septieme largeur ernest

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Septieme Largeur Ernest Jodhpurs in Green Patina

I love them but don’t worry, you can choose whatever color you want. I just decided to go a little crazy since I love green.

Johdpur riding boots are also cool and a great alternative to Chelsea Boots.

The quality of Septieme Largeur impressed me and I can recommend them to you!

Check out my Review Here!

18. Cobbler Union Chukka Boots In Dark Brown Suede

Did some one say Suede Chukka Boots?

After a few years of struggling to get a pair from Cobbler Union I finally managed to get my hands on one a few months ago.

Suede Chukka Boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Cobbler Union Suede Chukkas

Turns out it’s a solid shoe with a comfortable fit and lovely suede.

My only complain was the rounder last, but then again it makes an excellent casual shoe.

Nothing wrong with the last either, I just prefer chiseled ones more.

Good shoes, wearing them frequently!

Check out my Review Here!

19. Passus Oliver X Chukka Boots In Olive Green Suede

And now we go to the big brother of suede chukkas from Passus.

This is really something else, as dark green suede on a chukka boot with a soft square last and commando sole is a potential recipe for disaster.

Passus Suede Chukkas

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Passus Oliver X Suede Chukkas

However, Passus actually made it work so good and it looks phenomenal.

My favorite feature is the unstructured shaft of the boot which doesn’t hurt my ankle.

Genuinely handmade shoes from Hungary, these are ones to look out for.

Check out my Review Here!

20. Paolo Scafora Double Monk Boots In Antiqued Vietri Calf

My favorite shoemaker of all time is Paolo Scafora.

When I see them or wear them, I feel I am in a Lamborghini convertible cruising around the Amalfi coast.

Paolo Scafora Double Monk Boots

My Shoe Collection 2021 | Paolo Scafora Double Monk Boots

Overwhelmed by a sensation of awe, pleasure, euphoria are some of the feelings I get.

To back it up, these are properly handmade shoes with a Norwegian welt, amazing lasts and fantastic leather.

These and the leather from Norman Vilalta are among the finest I have in my collection.

This specific model is a gorgeous take on a Double Monk Strap Boot on the R Last.

Comes with the iconic Paolo Scafora sole logo and just a joy to hold and wear.

Check out my Review Here!

Reflections & Future Purchases

I think I already mentioned that I would probably have the same path in my shoemaking journey.

After getting the basics and my favorites I began bridging gaps in my collection.

For example I purchased 3 derbies including a split-toe in the last 3-4 months or so.

This was because it’s an essential style to me, but also to diverge a bit from the plethora of oxfords I had.

As for boots, I could probably do with a few less but if you think about it I have a 55/45 ratio between shoes and boots.

Thinking about the future, I have some projects in the works as well as some review pairs incoming.

My main goal is to get a Hippo or Nubuck Alligator pair from Petru & Claymoor, while Mario Bemer himself is working on a pair of chukkas for me.

After that I will be at Stefano Bemer learning shoemaking, so who knows what I will purchase.

Time will tell friends. Meanwhile, make sure to check the next section.

For Sale

I will not be actively updating this section so please forgive me if you reach out and the item’s gone.

All you need to do is E-mail me at kostas.mandilaris@gmail.com.

Sizing advice provided with each model and free shipping included in the price.

UK 8.5 Cie Shoes Triple Monk Zip Boots In Dark Brown | $120

It was a long time ago I reviewed Cie Shoes and if I am honest was pleasantly surprised.

Not sure about the retail price of $310 however it is a solid shoe, with a nice patina and good shape.

Cie Shoes Triple Monk Zip Boots

Cie Shoes Triple Monk Zip Boots For Sale

My favorite part of this boot was the side zipper which was discreet and super functional.

You can slip in and out in seconds and I can see why the popularity of zip boots increases.

Minimally worn in excellent condition shipped with the original box and accessories for $120.

Fit Advice: It’s a UK 8.5 and runs half a size narrow, so I recommend them for those that usually wear UK 8 (US 9D).

UK 7 Carlos Santos 8866 Jumper Boots In Coimbra | $120

One of my first ever boots, it’s astonishing how good these look after so long.

The patina is Coimbra Dark Brown and developed beautifully with orange hues.

Carlos Santos 8866

Carlos Santos 8866 For Sale

It has a commando sole and the only reason I sell this for just $120 ($329 new) is because one part of the heel block needs some extra glue.

I will probably fix it for you though. Price negotiable.

Selling because my foot grew over the years and something has to go.

Fit Advice: A UK 7 that runs half a size large. So it will fit you that usually wears UK 7.5 or US 8.5D.

UK 7 Carlos Santos 4120 Tassel Loafers In Guimaraes | $200

Quickly, pounce on this deal you lucky ones.

Like I mentioned, I don’t like loafers so I wore these once to my office and back and decided to sell them.

Tassel Loafers

Carlos Santos 4210 Tassel Loafers For Sale

They are practically new as well as the soles and in beautiful dark brown patina.

Retails new for $309.99 and I am asking just $200.

Fit Advice: UK 7 that runs half a size large. So it will fit you that usually wears UK 7.5 or US 8.5D.

UK 7 Project TWLV Royal Logger Boots In Sand Suede | $250

Excellent Goodyear Welted Boots by Swedish Project TWLV.

I just don’t really wear that style anymore. Super durable, tank boots with extremely tough suede.

Project TWLV Boots

Project TWLV Boots For Sale

If you are into hiking and walking these will be a treat.

Retailing for $600 and I am asking for just $250. Worn maybe 5-6 times, so practically new.

Sole will be cleaned of course before shipping.

Fit Advice: UK 7 that runs true to size so take your regular UK 7 or US 8D.

4 x UK 8 Carlos Santos Handgrade Shoes (NEW Unworn) | $350 Each

To not make this a massive section, I also have 4 pairs of Carlos Santos Handgrade shoes that I never wore and want to sell.

I repeat that they are BRAND NEW and their retail price is $419.99 USD.

So you get a $70 discount for new shoes. If you buy more than one, we can negotiate a better price.

All these shoes are UK 8 and are beautiful, one of a kind models you will never find elsewhere.

Fit Advice: All UK 8 that run true to size so take your regular UK 8 or US 9D.

Final Words

Very excited I managed to do this but my god, was it a lot of work.

Taking 24 pairs of shoes in my back yard for all the neighborhood to watch and editing all the pictures was a nightmare.

At least it made some really nice photos didn’t it? But I am proud of this shoe collection and where it’s going.

How about your shoe collection though? How many do you have or what do you plan to buy? Let me know in the comment section!

And of course, if you love my Carlos Santos shoes you can support me at The Noble Shoe! I even have a 10% Discount if you Subscribe to the newsletter!

Take care my friends!

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy

Hello, my name is Kostas and I am the owner of Misiu Academy and The Noble Shoe! I am glad to have you along on the journey to developing classic style and love for good shoemaking!

Comments

  • September 1, 2021
    Mike

    Great write up! I’d totally buy all 4 pairs of the new CS’s if they were my size. Thanks for taking the effort to drag all 24 pairs out to shoot them and share them with us!

    reply
  • September 1, 2021
    Ahmad

    I read the whole thing! Very well done my friend. Can’t wait to see what the bright future will hold for you.

    Myself? I’ve been on a learning journey thanks to you and a couple of other guys on social media. I’ve been growing less impressed with some mainstream “US made” brands and trying different manufacturers. I bought my first pair of CS from you and have the shell GMTO under way. I’m hoping they fit my “strange” foot better than the boots. I will give the boots another chance with heel pads and thick socks but we will see.

    I probably bought 10 pairs this year alone which is odd because I don’t dress up anymore. When I’m working at the hospital I wear pajama scrubs and sneakers. We’re not wearing street clothes anymore because of covid. Yet I’m growing a little collection and sometimes I wear my nice shoes in the house. It makes me feel good instantly.

    The hardest part of trying different brands overseas is the fitment can be hit or miss since without a physical store I can’t go in and test different sizes. But that’s part of the process I guess. I’m hoping to get a pair of Paolo Scaforas from your shop before New Years. The wife will have some choice words I’m sure.

    Take care!

    reply
  • September 2, 2021
    Michael

    Just 5 pairs, two with you still 😉

    Father’s Day is this Sunday so I’ll try on the Derbies and my 3 pairs will be 5. I prefer toe cap oxfords. Will have 1 Fugashin and 4 Carlos Santos. Happy a few of them will. be handgrade.

    reply
  • September 5, 2021
    Dawid

    Hi Kostas, great collection! What did you dislike about your TLB pair?

    reply

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