The Ultimate Carlos Santos Sizing Guide
Welcome to a very niche Guide about Carlos Santos Shoes, Sizing & Lasts.
I originally published this article on The Noble Shoe Blog but wanted to expand on a few things.
For example, I added a section talking about the different constructions and model ranges.
People browsing Misiu Academy often look for advice, reviews and guides so it felt appropriate to aid your search.
Let’s begin!
Introduction To Carlos Santos Shoes
Carlos Santos Shoes are some of the Best Dress Shoes you can buy in terms of quality, design, looks and value.
With a history that spans decades, this Portuguese shoemaker is the epitome of experience, finesse and handmade elegance.
Fairly priced while punching well above their price and most importantly, fitting well.
According to feedback and years of experience, they also provide a great fitting experience with good arch support and generous widths or instep.
Unfortunately, there is a lot of misinformation out there about the fitting of Carlos Santos Shoes and how to get the correct sizing advice.
Luckily, The Noble Shoe is the World’s foremost authority when it comes to finding the right size in multiple brands including Carlos Santos Shoes.
In this Guide, we are going to talk about the most popular, commonly encountered Carlos Santos Lasts & Ranges.
For reference, we will be using a person with normal feet (D Width) and a UK 8 (US 9D) as a benchmark for each Last.
Carlos Santos Shoe Ranges
Carlos Santos offers a plethora of constructions that depends on what each retailer wants to create.
However their core collection and bulk of production will always be using the Goodyear Welt System.
It would require an entirely new article to talk about each and every one of them but I managed to break them down in main categories:
- Carlos Santos Sport: Sneakers and trainers form part of the Sport Collection with a classic vulcanized construction
- Bologna & Blake: There is no common denominator here and they are rarer, seasonal shoes you are unlikely to encounter online
- Premium Blake: While there is no formal name, it is easily recognizable by the sole and The Noble Shoe always discloses the construction
- Carlos Santos Main Line: Most shoes will be on the Main Line/Benchgrade range with a classic Goodyear Welted construction
- Handgrade Line: A step up with better finishing and a great closed channel handpainted leather sole
- Handcrafted Line: An extremely rare makeup that commands prices up to $700 and has a special fiddleback waist
To go more in-depth, I already have a video on YouTube about this topic.
Tip: Read about the types of shoe construction here.
Sizing Guide For Carlos Santos Lasts
If you visit the actual Carlos Santos Factory (I Have!) you will notice like most respectable brands they have tons of lasts.
Instead I will cover the most important ones which are the ones you are most likely to encounter out there.
As a gentle reminder, we will be using a person with normal feet (D Width) and a UK 8 (US 9D) as a benchmark for each Last.
LAST 234 SIZING
Last 234 of Carlos Santos is a wonderfully balanced last, ideal for more casual shoes such as derbies and jumper boots.
It has a generous instep and width with plenty of toe space due to its shape.
The 234 is a gentle blend of a medium round and slight almond last, leaning towards the latter.
I recommend you size down half from your regular UK Dress Shoe Size.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 316 SIZING
The 316 Last is yet another wonderfully balanced shape ideal for casual boots.
Specifically, Field Boots in the classic “Galway” Design look fabulous and elegant while allowing flexibility of wear in multiple scenarios.
Last 316 is actually one of the widest Lasts in the Carlos Santos Shoes family.
Not very elongated, it has a generous instep and widest point, which is something you will see often in this guide.
The shape is more of a medium round toe with a gentle curve at the front.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 333 SIZING
Some people prefer a truly round Last shape and that is the 333.
A classic, round last perfect for casual bluchers or chunkier, casual boots.
Quite straightforward, it has a normal profile and a tasteful round toe with some added curves at the waist line.
The 333 Last has a rather normal instep, but a wider fit so a half-size down is recommended.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 362 SIZING
The 362 is the premiere Loafer Last of Carlos Santos.
Best for classic penny loafers with a gentle almond shape, it is the one you will find on the model 9176 in the Patina Service.
While not exceptionally elongated or wide, it is imperative to get a good snug fit on loafers.
The 362 has a rather normal instep and slightly wider width, however you will often wear loafers with thin socks, no-show socks or in some cases no socks at all.
I recommend going half a size down here as well.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 387/389 SIZING
One of the best looking lasts of Carlos Santos are the 387 and 389.
They are separate Lasts but virtually indistinguishable with the only difference being a slight width adjustment and curvature on the tip.
Specifically, for a small amount of people the 387 has a tiny bit more space on the widest point, but not enough to warrant sizing down.
Both have an elongated shape with a beautiful soft square shape further accentuated by the outsole finishing.
A very formal type of shoe or an industry disrupting “aggressive” boot design is the perfect receiver for these lasts. For most, this will be the ideal Oxford Shoe shape.
With a rather normal instep and width, I recommend your usual Dress Shoe Size.
Size Recommendation: UK 8
LAST 397 SIZING
Last 397 is the widest Last I have encountered by Carlos Santos.
It is a rather casual rounder Last with a bit more chiseled features and seems more catered for those having a wider foot.
Generous instep and a rather wide width, it’s definitely one to size down for.
Currently, the 397 is encountered only in the Patina Service and model 9381.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 401 SIZING
Last 401 is THE definitive Carlos Santos shape.
A perfectly balanced, curved and chiseled almond shape that adds finesse and elegance to almost any model.
It has also exceptional fitting feedback from most people.
A Last with a wider width, elongated shape and generous instep that definitely needs half a size down.
Many of the Carlos Santos Shoes at The Noble Shoe sport the 401 as it is very attractive.
If you have a flat, “pancake” foot or a very wide heel you might encounter some gaping at the ankle point which is normal and not a shoe issue.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 445 SIZING
Probably the most balanced and best selling Last of Carlos Santos is the 445.
Strikingly resembling the Edward Green 82 Last, the 445 is regarded as an elegant, well-fitting form.
A balanced blend of medium round and almond shapes without the exaggerated elongated profile and perfect for all kinds of shoes.
Whether you want to add sophistication to a pair of boots or the ultimate Black Oxfords.
Size Recommendation: UK 7.5
LAST 453 SIZING
A rather rare Last to encounter is the 453.
It was a part of some Patina Service items with a round shape and comfortable fitting.
A very casual last that will fit true to size for most people.
Size Recommendation: UK 8
LAST 462 SIZING
Last 462 is a rather new last and another take on the soft square elegant shapes of Southern Europe.
Chiseled and sharp with an elongated shape and great fitting it can transform a pair of shoes from normal to eye-catching.
While we don’t currently stock Carlos Santos Shoes on the 462 Last, we often bring Group Made To Orders that use it.
I recommend taking your regular UK sizing.
Size Recommendation: UK 8
Conclusions
Hopefully this was a way for you to learn a bit more about Carlos Santos, the different ranges and of course how sizing works.
My relationship with Carlos Santos is stronger than ever and we have a fruitful partnership that thrives through my passion for this brand.
I may have shoes that cost thousands, but I find myself still using Carlos Santos for my daily things.
I love the fact that they remain relevant to my wardrobe and stand the test of time.
For all things Carlos Santos and more, I hope to hear from you at The Noble Shoe.
See you next week!
Thank you for reading,
Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy
What’s your impression on the Z401 last that they put up on the new Herring Handgrade collection (which is just Carlos Santos handgrade for Herring)? how different are they to the regular 401 last? I think Carlos Santos does some of the most distinct yet subtle kinds of unique details in their shoes, and their beveled soles in that collection are no exception 🙂
Hi Daniel, there’s no difference at all it’s the same last.
I am normally a US 7 size in a dress shoe, so I ordered a pair of UK 6 Carlos Santos wholecuts from Herring. But it felt loose in the ankle and heel. The instep still feels comfortable. I found your blog (and video) afterwards becausebut it seems like you recommend a half size smaller (UK 5.5) for most of the Carlos Santos range, correct? But the UK 5.5 size seems rare, even in the Noble Shoe store. Do you have any sizing advice?
Hi Peter, for most lasts UK 5.5 would be correct yes. I don’t understand why herring calls the 401 true to size. Lasts 387, 389, 462 for example that I carry fit more UK 6.
For 5.5 the only option is a GMTO via my website or the patina service.