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Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Suits Guide: What’s The Difference?

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted SuitsDouble Or Single?

Welcome to the “Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Suits” Guide.

The point of this article is not to debate which style is better and why but to help you understand the differences.

There will be of course a discussion about formality and versatility and hopefully this Guide will help you find the style that fits you best.

Let’s begin!

There Are Two Types Of Suit Jackets

Before we delve in the details of each style, it’s only appropriate to quickly set the premise.

The term Double-Breasted or Single-Breasted essentially refers to the closing system and button configuration of a jacket.

I say jacket, because you can encounter each archetype not only in suits, but also coats and waistcoats.

Quick Infographic of the different kinds of Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Suits
Quick Infographic of the different kinds of Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Suits (Minus 4×1)

There is no such thing as a Triple-Breasted Suit for example and if there is, you should burn it.

Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that by Suit, I mean the jacket as there is no difference in the trousers rather than the overall look of the ensemble.

In the next few sections I will break down both styles so you can easily distinguish between Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted.

1. Single-Breasted Suits

I think the best way to kick start this guide is to start with the most popular version at the moment.

The Single-Breasted is a very simple type of jacket/blazer/sports coat where the fabric meets precisely at the middle of your body.

There is no overlap of fabric and the only main visual difference you can encounter is the buttoning.

In essence there are 3 or 4 types of Single-Breasted jackets and suits which I will discuss in the following sub-sections.

1.1 The 1 Button Single-Breasted

Beginning with the most obscure and rare one: the 1 Button Single-Breasted.

There is only one place where you will want to wear a 1 Button Jacket and that is in a Black Tie event.

When we talk about buttons, we mean about how many the jacket has at the front to fasten it.

In this case as you can see in the picture it has only 1.

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted 1 Button Tuxedo
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | 1 Button Single-Breasted Tuxedo

Tuxedos then is the only real place you will find and want to wear such a jacket.

I suppose you can make a Bespoke or Custom Made jacket in this style.

Unfortunately this is a very niche style and very easy to get it wrong due to the proportions.

Since this is a tuxedo jacket, it will most likely have peak or shawl lapels from velvet or satin and jetted pockets.

1.2 The 2 Button Single-Breasted

The most modern classic and popular style of them all is the 2 Button Single-Breasted.

If you walk into the cheapest menswear store in history you are likely to find one of these.

The only difference between this and the previous one is that there are 2 functional buttons to close the jacket.

However, you should ONLY button the top button and leave the bottom one unfastened.

Suitsupply Jort
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | 2 Button Single-Breasted by Suitsupply

If you do button that one too, the proportions look off, the jacket stops resting and draping naturally and will look super tight if you carry some excess weight.

This type of jacket is really the easiest, safest choice and most versatile in my opinion.

Depending on the material and the formality of the suit, it’s ok to play around with:

  • Pockets: Jetted, Flap or Patch
  • Lapels: Peak, Notch or Wide Notch

The most common lapel type for these types of jackets is the notch.

However there seems to be a (welcome) trend for some wider notch lapels and in some cases peak.

A Peak Lapel Single-Breasted Suit is quite the statement and a great way to put some emphasis in your masculinity and shoulders.

Some things you should take a look other than the quality and the fit, is the buttoning stance.

This refers to where they buttons are on the jacket and affect the overall look.

In most cases you will want to look for balanced proportions and a slightly lower button stance so it drapes better.

One of the criticisms I have (and received) about Suitsupply is that the buttoning stance could be lower.

As for the pockets, choose patch for a casual suit or jacket and the other two are both appropriate in any setting.

1.3 The 3 Button Single-Breasted

My least favorite style of Single-Breasted suit is the 3 Button version.

You see, when you add more buttons you are using more of the fabric visually and something has to change.

In these cases, it is usually the lapels that become shorter and in many cases anemic.

Obviously the jacket has 3 buttons and you fasten the top two for the same reasons as above.

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted 3 Button Suit Daniel Craig
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | 3 Button Suit from Daniel Craig in No Time To Die

I actually think that a nice three button suit can look good in the right person and from the right tailor.

But I haven’t found one that looks good on me yet.

Bigger guys should probably be more careful with this style since there are more things that can look wrong.

If one button is tight, then two of them might look even tighter.

A more casual style that can look nice in the appropriate setting or night out!

1.3.1 The 2.5 Button Single-Breasted

I reserved a small section for this one as it is a variation of the 3 Button jacket.

In certain styles, the maker hides the top button right under where the lapel begins to roll.

It’s mostly hidden, in some cases decorative or serves a function if you want to button it up.

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted 2.5 Button Jacket
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | Notice the extra button and hole at the bottom of the lapels

As far as looks go, it looks mostly like a regular 2 Button Single-Breasted Jacket for the most part.

This style can look nice on a coat when you need to keep your upper torso warmer.

If I remember correctly, Suitsupply’s Washington model used to come in this type of configuration.

Check out the Suitsupply Fits Guide to make sure!

Trivia: Some call this a “3-roll-2” jacket.

1.4 4 Or More Buttons Single-Breasted

Recently in one of those funny menswear groups on Facebook I saw a guy with a 4 button suit.

It was ghastly, with the tiniest, most anemic and limp-dick lapels in the history of menswear.

4 button suit
Here’s the example I wanted to show you

There’s a good reason jacket buttons stop at 3.

Everything else is a gimmick and should be avoided like the plague.

So if you come across such suits run like Forrest Gump.

2. Double-Breasted Suits

Moving on to the Double-Breasted part of the Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Guide.

Double-Breasted Suits are a very stylish, vintage and classic type of men’s tailoring.

They were extremely popular around the 30’s and the pinstripe suit with a Tommy Gun is a mafia gangster stereotype.

Double-Breasted suits lost popularity in what seems like the 80’s and 90’s but slowly clawed back over the past 5-10 years.

The main difference compared to Single-Breasted is the excess fabric/flap that overlaps towards the right side instead of meeting in the middle.

This in conjunction with the different button configuration makes the Double-Breasted Suit or Coat very distinguishable and unique.

In most cases there are 4 or 6 buttons in total on a Double-Breasted Jacket.

You will (and should) only find such suits with peak lapels.

Another difference is that usually only 2 of the buttons are actually functional while the others decorative.

Remember that a jacket is Double-Breasted. There is no such thing a “Double-Breasted Trouser”.

A Double-Breasted suit can really alter your silhouette so getting the fit right is super important.

Of course, based on the closure system and number of buttons there are different styles we will talk about now.

2.1 4×2 Double-Breasted

We begin with the 4×2 Double-Breasted Suit.

The first number refers to the total number of buttons on the front while the second one shows you the functional buttons.

In this case, a jacket has 4 total buttons and 2 functional ones.

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | 4x2 Double-Breasted Suit
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | 4×2 Double-Breasted Suit

The 4×2 is a more modern take on the classic Double-Breasted suit but it does follow similar rules to the Single-Breasted versions.

You should only button the top button, otherwise you will look boxy and rigid.

I am a bigger fan of the 6×2 as you will see later and don’t own a 4×2 yet.

But it can definitely look nice in the right set up.

2.2 4×1 Double-Breasted

This one is very rare and I suppose interesting.

It is exactly like the previous one, but the difference is that there is only 1 functional button.

Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | Example of a 4x1 Double-Breasted Suit
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | Example of a 4×1 Double-Breasted Suit

In fact, that button is the button one for a change giving the jacket a very V shaped look.

This type of suit is very rare and most likely custom made.

Actually, it better be because if you do this one wrong, the results will be visually catastrophic.

2.3 6×2 Double Breasted

Ah, the big daddy of suits is the 6×2.

With a total of 6 buttons on a Y configuration, but only 2 functional ones this one is a true classic.

It’s exactly the same as the 4×2 (which in fact came later) but with an additional two ornamental buttons around your nipple area.

Suitsupply MTM Suit

This is by far my favorite style of suit of them all.

I really like how it drapes on me, how it accentuates my silhouette and the overall badass feeling it gives me when I wear one.

2.3 6×1 Double Breasted

Same as the 4×1 but with 2 extra buttons, the 6×1 is equally as rare.

Actually the only person I saw wearing this and owning it is my friend Hugo Jacomet.

6x1 Suit
Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted | Hugo Jacomet in a 6×1 Double-Breasted Suit

This style is definitely for the man that already has everything and wants to expand his wardrobe with something new.

Yet another style you will most likely find in Bespoke or Custom Made Tailoring.

2.4 Other Variations

Just like the Single-Breasted, any other button configuration on a Double-Breasted is to be avoided.

There are a few exceptions of course, such as waistcoats, military uniforms and overcoats or pea-coats with 8 or more buttons.

Suitsupply Cashmere Coat Review

Stay away from any type of 2 button Double-Breasted suits please.

If you really want to burn money you can PayPal me instead.

Double Breasted Vs Single Breasted Suit – Which Is Best?

Now that you know how to quickly recognize each style it’s time to talk about “Which is Best”.

The answer is: The one that suits your style, build, lifestyle and the occasion.

One thing to think about is your overall build.

If you are a bigger man, a good fitting Double-Breasted suit will make you look nicer.

On the other hand, a short man might appear strange and even tinier in such a suit.

Then of course you have your own sense and taste of style.

For example I love Double-Breasted Suits and most of my wardrobe consists of them.

It does require more confidence to pull this style off, but if you can it’s certainly worth it.

On the other hand if you prefer a modern, safe classic you should look at the 2 Button Single-Breasted Suits.

Then you move on to the lifestyle section and the occasion.

A person that wears in IT can maybe get away with the odd blazer or casual suit, but would look totally out of place in a Double-Breasted.

Someone with a managerial position, or an artist, businessman or creative person might want to opt out for the Double-Breasted Suit which will always attract more attention.

Lanieri Double Breasted Suit
Lanieri Double Breasted Suit Front View

Lastly, another thing to consider is how versatile a garment is.

Generally it is more difficult to mix and match a Double-Breasted jacket with odd trousers or separates.

It can of course be done and you don’t have to wear a tie either, but some have strong opinions on that.

The advantage of a Single-Breasted Suit then is that you can dress it up and down appropriately and seamlessly.

Where To Buy Single & Double-Breasted Suits?

The most important part of suits and shoes is fit and appearance.

For Suits you should look for at least half-canvassed versions which will keep their shape for ever.

Avoid designer brands and cheap fast fashion shops such as Zara or H&M.

Yes, this might cost you more but even if you are on a budget you can find great deals in thrift stores or eBay.

Here are a few stores that I can recommend if you want to buy either of these styles:

  • Spier & Mackay: Great Canadian Entry Level Suit Brand (Use Code 369W7R during Registration for 20% off)
  • Suitsupply: From Entry To Higher End
  • Lanieri: Custom Made Italian Suits
  • Black Lapel: Custom Made Online Suits

You can find more info on these and other tailoring shops in this guide!

When Should You Buy A Double-Breasted Suit?

Another very subjective question is when you should buy X suit.

Since Single-Breasted are more popular, the real question is about the Double-Breasted one.

Like I mentioned before, you should think about your lifestyle and each occasion.

For the average person that needs a suit, you should always begin with the basics.

Get yourself 4-5 good Single-Breasted Suits including solid navy and grey colors and then you can expand to more adventurous areas.

For those of you that like the look of a Double-Breasted Suit but are unsure, I would recommend getting a Double-Breasted Overcoat so you can get familiar with the style.

I got mine from Suitsupply.

My advice for your first Double-Breasted Suit is to go with a simple solid color like navy or charcoal grey.

Conclusions

Hopefully in this article you understood the core differences of Double-Breasted Vs Single-Breasted Suits.

Mainly in appearance, formality and design both allow you to find your own style.

For most people just starting it is always better to begin with the basics and build a core capsule collection.

Then you can expand to more adventurous designs, patterns and types of suits.

However, remember that fit is king and to avoid any overly fashionable statement pieces.

Let me know which type of suit is your favorite and why!

I will see you next week with a really exciting showcase!

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy

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Comments (9)

I’m a Spier Mackay fan. They are priced great when they have sales. The contemporary fit is comfortable and not tight like Suitsupply.

Hi Joe, I like them too. I wish it was easier to buy in Europe because we get import taxes and shipping is super slow. But great value and good alternative.

Thank ;you for this very interesting article. it was very informative and taught me things i did not know. I an looking for a Royal Blue or Royal Klein Blazer and that color is hard to find at a good cost.. i will try some of the shops ;you have suggested
thanks again…ED

Kostas Mandilaris

Hi Ed,

specific colors that are not as mainstream are harder to find when you are looking for quality. I would look at Spier & Mackay, Suitsupply and then you would have to go custom.

Best,
Kostas

Very detailed & informative. I personally prefer the double-breasted suit; my first custom-made suit was a 6×2 double-breasted which was a bit costly but worth it.
I prefer the double-breasted to the single-breasted suits because the former is more detailed, fashionable and classic.

Thank you and glad you found it helpful. I am a big fan of 6×2 but it is always good to have a few single ones as they are easier to break and mix and match!

[…] is important to note that the blazer was once a fixture for men’s fashion, a classic, single-breasted navy blazer with gold metal buttons was a part of business casual […]

Hi!
could you explain me why does it use the word “breast” for this jacket?
I’m an english student and trying to understand this topic.
I’d appreciate if you could help me.
Best regards
Camila

Hi Camila,

It is a bit harder to explain as a non native English speaker hehe. It most likely refers to the chest area and that the the double version overlaps to the other side in a very simple explanation. In other languages they might use different terms.

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