Summer Finally Arrived
Welcome to my Review of my latest MTM Cotton Summer Suit by Lanieri.
Summer finally properly arrived in Italy and this suit came just in time.
Since I covered Lanieri extensively before, it will be a shorter article but compare the (hopefully) improvements over the last one.
Let’s check it out.
At Its Limit
I want to start with some thoughts, that started all the way back when I commissioned this suit around April 2023.
If you remember I visited the Lanieri Atelier in Milan and I wasn’t sure what kind of fabric to pick.
I am in the process of revamping my wardrobe to warmer weather since I moved in Italy and last year was a reality check for me.
Opting for what felt like a lightweight cotton-silk summer suit was a good idea, but it has its limits.
First of all, it’s not seersucker or linen (which maybe I should have went for) and after a certain temperature there’s no saving.
For me in particular, the limit of this fabric and makeup was around 30 Celsius.
If you are a person that sweats easily it is generally going to be tough above that.
Linen should fare better but I want to get the point out that no matter the fabric, if you go and try to wear a suit in 40 degrees it will be a disaster.
Up until 30 however, this unstructured cotton-silk suit works well, looks the part and is a great choice in beige.
Just a reminder to be smart and aware of each situation individually.
Suit Specifications
Here’s a quick list of the specifications we are working with today:
- Fabric: Cotton Silk (CB2001F-201)
- Mill: Subalpino (Italy)
- Style: Single Breasted
- Pockets: Flap
- Sleeve Buttons: 4
- Jacket Vents: Double
- Shoulder Style: A camicia (shirt-shoulder)
- Buttons: Havana
- Lining Style: Half-Lined
- Lapels: Wide Pointed
- Belt: Side Adjusters
- Fly Front: Zipper
- Price: 1150 Euros
- Made In: 100% Italy
At first glance it looks like a Solaro Suit, that I already have (Review Here) but with some modifications.
It is half lined and doesn’t have the visible vertical pattern that a Solaro has.
I also went for big lapels because why not and even though it’s not visible here, the melton is dark green.
Lastly, I should also mention that I fully paid for this suit myself and this Review is just my own thoughts.
Update: This was a seasonal fabric that is not available anymore.
How’s The Fit?
Let’s start with the evolution of my measurements as this is my third full suit from Lanieri.
My weight fluctuates a lot nowadays so some areas such as the jacket closure might not be optimal.
But overall I feel I have a good set of measurements and fit with Lanieri.
The only thing I requested to adjust from my previous order was shortening the trousers by 1 cm as they were too long.
Honestly the fit is pretty good especially with the jacket open.
The trousers are comfy enough but also at just the limit since I was slimmer when I commissioned the suit.
Still, there is good range of movement, the shoulders are good and I can bike freely or bend without being afraid of ripping the crotch.
At the moment, I wouldn’t change anything as I’m perfectly happy with the result.
Fabric Quality
I was familiar with Subalpino fabrics from my time at Suitsupply.
It was all about the more interesting and unique fabrics and this one is no different.
When I handled the fabric it was deceptively thin and lightweight, which is something you need to also be careful when looking at swatches.
Unfortunately it was one of the reasons I went for it over linen.
It does feel substantial (not heavy by any means though) and carries some weight to it.
The material itself is really good and feels durable and strong which is how cotton and silk should be.
It’s not glossy and if anything, feels a little more “rustic” and muted.
If you look closely, you can see the effect silk has in the weave.
It’s pretty good, but for costing that much it better be premium.
Just be aware that it is cotton and will crease and wrinkle quite a bit.
Overall, I am very happy with the fabric quality as is always the case with Lanieri.
Quite Note On Suit Details
Here’s a short section about some details the suit has.
I am a big fan of peak and wide lapels and here was no different.
Usually I am also quite conservative on the buttons, but these Havana ones I chose look really nice and match well.
As for the trousers, I skipped the cuffs since my bow legs make it look terrible lately.
There’s only one option when it comes to the waist and that is side adjusters, I will never wear a belt again.
Everything looks and feels well and it’s a good time to mention the trouser rise.
As you see, it is a high rise and it is not an option on the Lanieri configurator.
However, you can request up to +6 cm by leaving a note or contacting support.
I always choose +4.5 as I feel works best with me.
Shoes & Accessories
No outfit is complete with the right shoes, socks and accessories.
I bought a ton of socks from Celchuk (Former Viccel) and used a more conservative olive green one here.
For the shoes, it was my first wear of Paul Sargent which were phenomenal and you will see in a review soon.
Also coming up will be the latest acquisitions from Shibumi Firenze with two ties and a beautiful pocket square.
How To Wear?
Summer is synonymous with lighter and warmer colors as well as pastel.
Beige is very flexible and easy to match with many different outfits.
Shirt options are flexible with white, light blue and pink working well.
Since it’s a more casual type of color it becomes easier to wear stripes or patterned shirts.
Ties and pocket squares is how you can really spruce up the outfit with some tasteful and fun combos.
A slightly darker shade of the suit color looks really good in my opinion.
Shoe color is also flexible with multiple shades of brown and burgundy.
For the slightly “smarter” and sartorial savvy, dark green and navy shoes can be also a banger.
Was It Worth It?
Judging the looks, quality and fit this suit is definitely worth it despite the high price tag.
However in retrospective I think I should have went for a linen suit before a cotton silk one.
It works, but the linen trousers I have from Lanieri do feel much more airy.
If you live in a more temperate climate, it’s a pretty good option.
For the Mediterranean though, maybe invest in a linen or seersucker suit for the summer first.
I don’t have buyer’s regret and have already worn this a ton, but next time I won’t change my mind and go for linen.
Conclusions
And that’s it!
My short review and update of the Lanieri MTM Cotton Silk Summer Suit.
It was a great experience, fit, quality and outcome as it has been the case for me.
Also a great opportunity to put the new accessories and shoes to the test.
Expect reviews of Paul Sargent and Shibumi Firenze soon next!
Until that, take care and stay cool with linen!
Thank you for reading,
Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy
