I can finally welcome you to my Septieme Largeur Review!
Septieme Largeur is a brand that I admired for a long time with a great reputation for their Patina work. But do they really deserve their place in this competitive industry?
This is exactly what I will try to find out with today’s in-depth Review of the Septieme Largeur Ernest Jodhpurs Boots in Green Patina.
We will be discussing important topics such as quality, finishing and fit among others. But most importantly I hope you will see if it is worth spending your money from an enthusiast’s point of view.
Let me get some hot tea, it’s full winter mode in Stockholm!
Disclaimer: Septieme Largeur was kind enough to provide this pair in exchange for my honest opinions & review.
A Little Background
My original Best Shoe Brands List in 2019 was the first time I mentioned Septieme Largeur.
It was also the time when I researched a little bit more about them. Their Patina work intrigued me as much as their low-key reputation in the shoe industry.
Excellent looking models, high quality finishing and sole work in a carefully put together collection of men’s shoes. Their achilles heel seemed to be a rather dated website.
Since that I kept in contact with Mathieu Preiss – who is the co-founder of Septieme Largeur – and we had some wonderful discussions.
He mentioned they were working on a brand new modern website which finally released in 2020.
The Story Behind Septieme Largeur
Septieme Largeur means “Seventh Width” in French.
Even though the brand’s history is relatively short, shoemaking runs in their family veins for decades.
Mathieu (mentioned above) together with his uncle Marcos Fernandez founded Septieme Largeur in 2009.
While it is a big achievement to create such a reputation and buzz around a new company there is much more behind that!
Marcos was the catalyst behind Mathieu’s passion for good shoemaking with life-changing experiences such as Markowski.
Septieme Largeur now produces their shoes using the Goodyear Welted System and considering themselves part of the English School with a French twist.
If I am honest with you however I feel that their shoes do have a more distinct Italian/Spanish influence which is great. However one of the main attractions in French Shoemaking is their Patina work.
From brands like Corthay, Altan and Caulaincourt the desire of the French to differ and create visual art through patinas is evident.
But for me it is also memorable as in a sea of shoes they created their own unique identity.
If you find yourself in Paris, Taiwan, Singapore or Switzerland make sure to visit their store.
Selection & Studio Patina
While I will not talk too much about their collection there are a few points I would like to make.
First of all, Septieme Largeur has what you would call two main lines:
- Main RTW Collection between $279- $329 (Excl. VAT)
- Studio Patina between $350 – $420 (Excl. VAT)
The Main RTW Collection is the core of the brand with every model style you would wish for. From oxfords and derbies to monk straps and casual sneakers or loafers, they are there in mostly earthy, conservative colors.
On the other hand, the Studio Patina takes some of those base models and takes them to the next level. You essentially buy the crust (undyed) version and then choose some of the amazing patina examples (Link Here).
Many of those models come with a different last and this form of customization reminds me of the Carlos Santos Patina Service.
It’s worth mentioning that there are always some seasonal collections or collaborations as well as a ladies range.
For me personally the most recognizable style is their Tobar Triple Monk Boots which has inspired countless copies.
The Septieme Largeur Ernest Jodhpur Boots
Today’s Review though is all about the Ernest Jodhpur Boots so let’s discuss the specifications before diving in:
- Brand: Septieme Largeur
- Model: Ernest
- Style: Jodhpur Boot
- Color: Green
- Patina Code: V026
- Leather: Full Grain Calfskin (Crust) from Tannerie du Puy
- Construction: Goodyear Welted
- Sole: Closed Channel Leather (Wood Pegged Waist)
- Lining: Genuine Leather
- Buckle: Silver
- Last: 174
- Width: Regular (D)
- Size: UK 8/US 9D
- Origin: Spain
- Price: $400 (Excl. VAT)
Great specifications on paper and a good price point make this an attractive pair of shoes. It was also the second time I see a wood pegged waist after Maftei Vienna.
For those of you that don’t know about it you essentially attach the upper and sole with (usually) wooden pegs.
Unboxing & Delivery
It took around a month if I remember correctly for these to arrive after I commissioned them.
What positively surprised me was receiving a picture of how they looked before shipping. This certainly helped build up the excitement for me!
The package came through local post (at least in Sweden) which can result into some complications and slower delivery. It could be a little sketchy for example if USPS ends up delivering.
Their box is nice and sturdy with a stamped 7L logo and a light grey finish. It’s quite compact for boots actually yet they fit very well.
Inside you get some maroon excellent dust bags with a twill weave and a felt/flannel inside which has a short soft nap.
A similar cloth helps separate the shoes while I like the small printed brochure they include. Many people wonder how to take care of their patina shoes and this has all the information you need in just a few sentences.
Lastly, a pleasant surprise is the inclusion of a metallic silver shoe horn. It’s very good and a step up from the plastic ones you usually get.
Overall this is a top notch experience for the price.
Appearance & Looks
First things first so we will discuss what this is.
Quite honestly this is very straight forward as the Ernest is a pair of Jodhpur Riding Boots. They have a single strap around the ankle area and a silver buckle fastener.
The toe shape is plain with a beautiful almond shape and there is only minimal stitching. Single rows around the strap and side but a little interesting detail on the backseam.
Beautiful sole with visible wood pegs and what seems to be a slightly shorter heel. On the top of the shaft you also get a rather large pull tab with a textured weave.
I am excited because this is my first pair of Jodhpurs and from a bird’s eye view they appear just like a Chelsea which I love.
Proportions seem nice and the patina is simply gorgeous and rather bold. It is actually one of Mathieu’s personal favorites.
Septieme Largeur | Build Quality
Due to my extensive experience with Carlos Santos I consider myself one of the best to discuss patina shoes.
I can straight out tell you that for the price the overall construction is superb. You get exactly what you should expect from this price point.
Both the proportions, choice of last and stitching are good. The sole uses a non-traditional wood pegged design that looks impressive.
There’s good attention to detail on the front and they are actually rather lightweight.
If you buy boots such as these don’t be disappointed or unrealistic about crease marks around the shaft. You can’t make boots otherwise it is normal.
Let’s go more in-depth.
Septieme Largeur | Leather & Patina Quality
The leather quality is a rather important factor in a good shoe. But you also need to remember to have reasonable expectations.
In this case there are a few things that stand out to me. First of all the leather smells so good out of the box. There’s a marinated smell of new, real leather and fresh paint.
It is also extraordinarily smooth with a slight high shine and glossier look.
Secondly, the patina work is also beautiful and a great showcase of their skills. It is a strong selling point for these shoes so it has to be good.
The V026 Patina strongly resembles the Sintra from Carlos Santos although it seems to have some blue/teal hues when the light strikes it.
When viewed in a darker environment the boots will appear dark green but the reflection from my screen while typing this makes them reflect in a dazzling teal hue.
Here and there you can spot some areas where they missed the color such as under the strap.
This is a reminder that they paint them by hand and that’s the allure and beauty of a patina. It’s not a defect.
Lastly, the leather does seem to be a little thinner than your average British shoe but this is just my first impression.
Septieme Largeur | Sole Quality
On thing I initially missed was a detail I hadn’t seen before.
The black edge dressing of the outsole has a small feature I mentioned before. I wish I could showcase it or find the right word for it so I will do my best.
When you run your finger down the side of the sole the middle part is sanded in a little more. That means that the top and bottom of the outsole extends about a millimeter giving it a very distinct feel.
If they blindfolded me I could identify the Septieme Largeur shoes just from that!
On the bottom we have a nice dark brown closed channel leather sole. It has a rather slim profile with a few differences.
To begin with you get about 7 nails on the toe though I am not sure how that would affect a metal toe tip installation. My OCD tells me they are not hammered in evenly in an arch, but it showcases the charm of handwork.
In the middle part you have the wood pegging of course. There are 18 pegs (9 on each side) and I look forward to learning more about this in the future.
If you look closely you can spot a few details around the sole such as the trimming, fudging across the heel and a tight heel cup.
Even though the beveling of the waist is not extreme, it does have a sharp curve around the waist and a slight fiddleback.
Septieme Largeur | Stitching & Welt
Even though I talked about the stitching a bit it’s always a good idea to discuss it further.
It’s normal that the more I understand shoes, the more nitpicking I do or the more details I uncover.
As aforementioned the stitching is good across the board. Single rows of stitching on the uppers with a double stitched straight back seam.
Since we are on the backseam Septieme Largeur introduces a very small interesting detail there. At the top of the shaft the second stitching row moves inwards at a 45° angle and creates what looks like an H with pointy edges.
Yet another interesting detail is the positioning of the pull tab. It’s tucked in a small space between the upper leather and the inner lining. Theoretically you can cut it off without repercussions if you want to.
The welt is just as good in density as Carlos Santos Handgrade or Carmina but it does lack the fudging of the former. I think it could give it a slightly sharper look.
To finish up the welt stitch on the toe area leans towards the edge rather than the uppers.
Not that it matters structurally and you would be unrealistic to think this is a flaw or a quality issue for $400.
I can’t only praise shoes though so it’s good to at least mention this.
Septieme Largeur | Inner Lining & Insole
You will probably spot a lot of smudging on the sides of the lining.
Very normal though due to the hand-painting and I love it. It reminds me that there are people finishing it.
The lining seems to have a slight difference since the uppers fold and arch over the shaft about 1mm in.
Then the lining begins and to be fair this ensures a more trimmed look on the top.
Of course you get the small details such as model, size, lining number on the side as well as a branded half-insole.
Very interestingly on the top of the shaft right at the backseam there’s what appears to be a small rectangular plastic (?) sticker.
Is it intentional? I don’t know so if you do tell me in the comments down below!
Update: It turns out it’s a European regulation companies have to follow. The stickers explain the different material compositions of each pair.
The 174 Last
In many ways the 174 Last by Septieme Largeur reminds me of the Carlos Santos 401.
However the 174 seems to be a bit more chiseled and with a very soft square toe shape. Quite curvy around the waist and a gentle slope towards the toe.
I am really a fan and it seems to be a very tasteful last.
You can find it on a few different models that include:
- Tobar/Copy of Basile Triple Monk Boots
- Ernest Jodhpurs (this Review model)
- Arsene Button Boots
- Marceau II Balmoral Boots
- Basile Chelsea Boots
If I am honest I feel it would also look great on an oxford such as an Adelaide.
Fit & Comfort
Nothing matters if the shoes don’t fit your foot well.
Some lasts just don’t work for our feet but luckily this works for me! Septieme Largeur’s Size Advice considers the 174 a “thin” Last.
However in my opinion this just looks like your classic regular D width Last. Since I tend to hover between UK 7.5 and 8 I chose the latter and it was a good choice.
The 174 in UK 8 fits my foot just right in all areas and sizing down would be a mistake.
Jodhpurs just like Chelseas seem to work really well with higher insteps so I am grateful. The last is slightly elongated and the plain toe accentuates that but with just the right amount of toe space.
Width is just right though I need to wear them more extensively as my little toe feels a bit of pressure.
Lastly, the shaft is often a point of concern for many with these types of boots. I tend to have bigger ankle bones and sometimes it hurts but the shaft on these is perfect. Snug with the right amount of space (1 finger) on the front.
I should also mention that the sole is quite slippery in the beginning so be careful during your first wear. It’s fine afterwards!
My advice for those of you looking for shoes on this last?
Take your regular UK size (1 Full Size down from your US D) but consider half a size up if you have a wider foot at the front or more voluminous feet.
Update: The sole is extremely slippery. Be very careful on flat surfaces for the first time!
How To Take Care Of Your Patina Shoes
As always it is worth writing a little section about this burning question.
No, it is not harder to take care of your Patina Shoes. Quite the opposite I would say actually!
Luckily you do get some instructions from Septieme Largeur in the box but here are some reminders:
- Always use Shoe Trees from at least Cedar or Beech Wood. They help your shoes minimize creasing and retain shape
- If wet, use a simple white cotton cloth/shirt to wipe the excess water
- Only let the shoes dry naturally and NEVER near heat sources like radiators or the sun. The leather will otherwise crack or become dry
- Use a Horsehair Brush to remove dirt and particles or apply/buff polish
- Rotate your shoes and let them rest for 24 Hours if possible between uses
- Use ONLY Neutral Polish & Wax or you risk covering the Patina
- Do NOT use Renovateur or conditioners or you risk striping the Patina. If you must, use Bick4
- Do not apply excess polish or polish too often. Avoid areas where your foot bends or white residue will form
- For scratches or scuffs you can spot clean with colored pigments. Choose the one closest to the area you treat
Here’s my short video about it if you prefer a visual format or my charming voice.
Are There Any Negatives?
It really depends on your perspective. If you are the kind of person that demands perfection at these price points you won’t be happy.
Likewise, if you are the type that hates creasing why would you get a plain toe in the first place. By the way, leather creases so deal with it. And that comes from a man with OCD.
Some brands seem to have a more fancy welt and better finishing around hidden points like the lining or under the buckle.
A last thing would be the availability and reputation outside France. If you are lucky and live in Paris or the other 3 countries then this is no issue.
But if you are in the USA for example information is a bit scarce and you do have to take a bit of a leap of faith.
Do I Recommend Septieme Largeur?
Few brands manage to excite me outside of Carlos Santos in the entry level. Septieme Largeur is certainly one of them.
I can already hear you say “Sure you got them for free why would you not recommend them” and you would be partly right.
The reason is because these are a direct competitor to the main brand I sell at The Noble Shoe. That’s right, I am endorsing them even though they compete with my own shoes!
Why you might ask? Because of multiple reasons. They have an extremely friendly staff and a wonderful owner who is hands on and not there just to collect a paycheck.
They have a solid build, dozens of amazing patinas and sharp lasts for a very good price.
In my mind they are in the same category as Carlos Santos, TLB Mallorca and Carmina.
So if you straight up ask me “Would you buy them Kostas?” I would say “Hell yeah!“.
Here is the Video version of my Review if you prefer it!
Conclusions | Septieme Largeur Review
This brings us to the end of the Septieme Largeur Ernest Jodhpur Boots Review.
It’s not often I get really excited for a review but Patinas are my weak point. Excellent shoes and a wonderful company to deal with.
I highly recommend them and I would love to hear what you all think in the comments! If you had a positive (or negative) experience let me know!
In the meantime don’t forget to Subscribe and I will see you next week!
Thank you for reading,