I want to make a small parenthesis and mention that when I opened the box there was a strong, potent chemical smell.
It really overpowered my nose and was a similar experience my friend Mike Baldinger had.
After I let the shoes air a bit the smell completely disappeared.
We both found out that it is the adhesive they use for gluing the insole.
Just a heads up if you have a sensitivity to strong smells I suppose.
My advice is to take them out of the box and allow the smell to dissipate.
leather quality
What is there to say about leather quality without sounding like a fake expert each time?
To begin with, the tannery is Italian and called Bonaudo.
Admittedly, I knew nothing about them but after some journalistic research I found out a bit more about Bonaudo.
Mostly a domestic leather supplier, they follow the strict environmental protocol laws with tons of options.
If I am correct, Antonio Meccariello uses some for example which is always a good shine.
There were a few things that impressed me while I was looking at this leather.
The Leather comes from Bonaudo
It was exceptionally supple and smooth when running my hand over the uppers.
It also had a quite glossy shine to them and the leather will create a nice patina over time.
Personally I think that lighter spots will develop in the flex points in the future with wear.
Yearn also calls this a brown patina but for this model do not expect a very extensive depth with multiple colors.
It is much more subtle and uniform though if you ask for it I am sure they can deliver.
Update: After spending some more time using the shoes, I noticed some unusual creasing at the side of my right shoe.
It could either be the result of bad clicking in that part, or a fit/last issue with my foot.
I think it is the latter, so make sure to read the fit section of the review!
Build & construction
One of the main selling points of brands such as Yearn Shoemaker is the construction and value.
It is becoming a bit more common to find handmade shoes at lower price points without compromising quality.
There are obviously cut corners but the fact remains that this is a genuinely handmade shoe for less than $500.
Welted, lasted by hand with a handsewn closed channel outsole and leather heel stack is pretty impressive.
There is no way for me to assess the insides without cutting the shoe in half obviously.
However the shoe feels solid, is rather lightweight and you can feel the structure on the sides
It’s a pretty shoe, reminiscent of Gaziano & Girling
.
Minor things to improve are proper hammering of the heel nails as some are slightly protruding and I might do it myself.
Maybe the heel blocks could be sanded a bit more to be smoother I suppose.
The edge finishing on the bottom of the strap could also be more even.
Really nitpicking here, but for this price point what you seem to get is excellent.
stitching and welt
It is always very positive when I look at a pair of shoes and the stitching is good.
These days you really have to try to find terribly sewn shoes and I cannot recall the last time that happened in this blog.
Considering the (relatively) low price of today’s shoes and the handsewn apron and split, it is worth an extra look.
At first glance, you would not notice as the work is really good and consistent.
Pretty nice stitching both in the apron, the split and the welt
You have to really observe to see small hints of handsewing on the uppers or the skin-stitched split.
The same goes for the welt, which is tidy and well-executed.
Of course, it is not the highest density stitching in the world, but if you are interested in such things you would be looking at the Premium MTO instead.
In other words, I have no complaints regarding the stitching or welt in both shoes.
It is exactly what you should expect at this price range and possibly a little bit more.
outsole
And now it is time to flip the shoe and check out the bottom part as well as its sides.
I should begin by saying that I don’t think there is really any benefit in sewing the outsoles by hand compared to a machine.
It’s still very impressive and overall a pretty job.
The sole has a nice appealing shape with a slightly tighter waist and no fiddleback.
Look closely and there are a few minor bumps that showcase the stitching hidden under the leather.
A pretty neat sole for the price point
I am really nitpicking at this point of course.
One other thing you would notice is the nails at the toe, which I observe more and more these days.
In retrospective I should have asked for metal toe tips which is a modification I always recommend.
Then you see the heel which has less nails than usual but often the exterior ones are irrelevant.
It is what’s underneath that matters more and I cannot tell you that without removing the heel stacks.
Those are also leather and stacked by hand whereas Vass for example uses fiberboard.
The edge finishing on the top layer is slightly uneven.
I should remind you once more that such things are only noticeable if you just hold the shoes and inspect them yourself.
Nobody would ever notice them in real life applications so don’t go around forums complaining.
inner lining
There’s rarely something to talk about when it comes to inner lining.
I do like Yearn’s dark brown lining which comes with a branded half insole and rougher heel walls.
Trimming on the top is alright though certain points seem to have uneven width.
Lastly, you can notice the handwelted bumps at the front of the shoe.
Handwelted Bumps in the Insole
This is something I learned to look out for after the Archibald London fiasco last year.
Yearn Shoemaker Y07 Last
If you follow the blog you know how much I love (good) squared lasts.
Soft squares for the most part are my favorites since they have a “I mean business attitude”.
When people hear about square shapes they immediately think of those ugly 90’s shoes.
The difference here is the way they pronounce and shape that square at the front.
It’s quite chiseled and definitely not a soft square in my eyes. More of a (blunt) square instead.
The Yearn Shoemaker Y07 Last
A statement piece and if deemed too bold for some people, you could opt for the slightly more conservative Y03.
I think both could be good candidates for this model due to the slim, low-cut profile they have.
There is also some excess space at the front and thanks to the split seam the toe does not look too dramatic.
It all comes to personal preference and what you are trying to make.
Sizing advice
I am proving to be a solid UK 8 (US 9D) in most of my regular shoes.
For wider lasts (such as Paolo Scafora) I size down half while for narrow lasts (Stefano Bemer) I size up half.
After discussions with Tim from Yearn Shoemaker he advised me to go for a UK 8 on these as well.
Initially after trying them on and going outside it proved to be the right choice.
Possibly due to the wider more square toe there is better toe space for me.
The instep should sit just right for most people, even though there is just one hole in the strap.
In my case a small “roll” or “bump” formed at the instep area showing a bit of tightness.
There’s something cool about single monk straps for me
However it was not uncomfortable by any means but my right foot has a 0.5 cm higher instep.
I could just slightly feel my small toe touching the sides but not uncomfortably or painfully.
If you asked me today for sizing advice for the Y07 Last I would recommend taking it true to size.
Essentially same size as your Carmina Rain, Crockett & Jones 348, Saint Crispin’s Classic or Allen Edmonds 65.
Personally, for the future I would possibly experiment with half a size up to accommodate my special foot.
There was also the strange creasing at the side even after just 1 wear, which I think it was because my foot was too snug inside.
Don’t forget to always consult the retailer/brand to verify!
Disclaimer: Despite the slightly tighter fitting (notably on the instep) I did not have any noticeable discomfort or blisters after 5 km of walking.
Squeaking issue
I mentioned earlier in the article that I encountered an issue with squeaking.
As soon as I tried them on and walked a few steps I could hear it.
The next step was to isolate and find out where it originated from.
Turns out that as soon as I fastened the buckle, there was friction between the strap and tongue.
As I moved my feet, this friction created a squeaking sound which was a little annoying.
I assume that this is because of the leather having a lot of wax and polish as well as being a bit stiff.
My next course of action is to simply use the shoes and see if they soften.
If not, I will apply some conditioner or talc powder instead.
I will be updating you all as soon as I have more information but I really hope it disappears.
Hopefully not because I will probably not use them.
Update: After walking a bit the squeaking dissipated and was rather inaudible in real life applications.
However due to the instep issue I have it might not be the shoe’s fault so be aware.
Availability
A couple of months ago, Yearn Shoemaker launched their international website.
That is the easiest and most direct way to purchase from them.
Luckily the website is quite responsive and easy to navigate.
There is also Arterton London (who I don’t know much about) that is also an official retailer of Yearn Internationally.
I spoke with their Instagram manager and he tries to raise brand awareness to people.
If I am missing someone let me know and I will add it!
should you buy or not?
There are many ways to look and interpret that question,
If you look at it from a value and quality perspective, the basic offering of Yearn Shoemaker is pretty good.
It is hard to get a shoe that is really handmade for such money with the added flexibility of customization and quick lead times.
Also, for people that are disappointed by the continuous decline of brands like Carmina it is a good alternative.
Companies from China, Indonesia and Vietnam attempt to improve every time while certain brands rest on their comfort zone.
Not everything is perfect of course and there is room for improvement.
Yearn Shoemaker, Yeossal and other brands are doing a good job shaking the low quality association and stereotypes of Asian countries.
In the end, if you want to try something different and more custom and your budget is around the $400-$500 bracket I do recommend checking them out.
Thoughts: The squeaking might be because of the monk strap design. It is obviously a disappointment but depending on if it disappears it would affect my recommendation.
how to style single monk-Straps?
Should I just skip this paragraph?
Every time I do a Review I end up writing the same thing with different wording.
A Dark Brown Shoe, versatile enough to wear with suits or jeans of any kind.
Like, literally when you are not sure what to wear just use dark brown shoes.
How I styled my Yearn Shoemaker Monks the first time
They will match anything but black and dark grey colors.
Of course, if I see you wearing them with shorts or cargo pants I will not be very gentle with you.
My advice is that since they are a bit more unique in appearance, try to use them with similar clothes.
Maybe with a more interesting windowpane or patterned suit, or plaid trousers.
Or why not, just keep everything basic and simple and let the shoes be the talking point.
Video review
Did someone ask for a Video Review instead?
Well here it is!
conclusions
Yearn Shoemaker is an interesting company with a lean, precise business model.
There is a ton of customization and ranges for all tastes and overall they seem to make excellent shoes.
If they iron out small issues or polish their offerings they could potentially be a serious player!
In the end, their quality, consistency and customer service will dictate their success.
For now, I do recommend checking them out in the $400-$500 budget range.
Let me know what you think about my pair or what you would consider picking up from Yearn Shoemaker!
Chelsea Boot are one of the most flexible shoes for the well dressed man. You can dress them up or down and wear them with jeans or a suit. They are incredibly elegant and suave and a must in your wardrobe. Today’s article is a review about the Loake 1880 Chatsworth Brown Chelsea Boots. Find out if you should buy them or not!
A Trunk Show is a creator’s chance to show their work in a more private audience. It usually also means that they give exclusive offers with reduced prices which translates into a great deal.
In today’s article you will receive insight from the Shoegazing Trunk Show 2018 in Stockholm. Organised by one of the most famous shoe-dedicated blogs in the world (Shoegazing), it was a wonderful opportunity for me and other attendees to connect with famous shoemakers from around the world.
Misiu Academy was there to give you an inside look and why YOU should attend at least one in your life.
This month’s newsletter was pushed back one week later due to the Shoegazing Super Trunk!
However, we are now back to it and this time it is short and sweet. It features a few Crowdfunders and GMTOs that I am running at The Noble Shoe, a bit more philosophical discussions about classic menswear and some new releases for the A/W 19 season!
Today, I am thrilled to present to you the first ever review of the Premium Carlos Santos Handgrade Line.
A very limited edition from Carlos Santos that includes incredible features like a fiddleback waist, fudging around the welt, a patina and closed channel sole among others.
Specifically, this is an Adelaide Oxford in Guimaraes Patina (Deep Chestnut Brown) that is proper from the most formal of occasions down to a night out with friends.
Check out the review and if you are interested remember to email us at [email protected] for pre-orders.
This is it everyone! The end of 2019 and the beginning of a completely new adventure!
So Happy New Year with love, health and the best of luck to all of you. In the meantime, enjoy the last post of the year where we discuss all the latest Shoe News from December 2019!
This time I sit down and discuss shoes with Simon Wegmann from Wayman Bespoke! A new way to make custom shoes online focusing on the high end of the spectrum. Very interesting interview and very elaborate answers. I sure hope you will enjoy! Let me know what you think in the comments down below!
“Shoes transform your body language and attitude. They lift you physically and emotionally.”
Christian Loboutin
Every man needs a good pair of shoes. The Loake 1880 Oxford Aldwych is the most elegant offering of the classic English shoemaker. This review will tell you everything you need to know about it and a bit more!
It’s time for one more article! And it is an exciting one! A couple of weeks ago, I received my first personal pair of Paolo Scafora Shoes. In fact, three exclusive models are coming to The Noble Shoe in just a few weeks time. I was so blown away from the craftsmanship and attention to detail that I really wanted to make a review about my own pairs.
Genuinely Handmade in Italy with the best leathers and finest construction in the world, I present to you the Paolo Scafora 17/5B Wholecut in Montella Calf and 360 Norwegian Construction.
This time, we start our long journey into reviewing all the remaining shoes from the exclusive Carlos Santos Collection for The Noble Shoe. First in the line is the 7273 Classic Wingtip Oxfords in Brown Calfskin.
Goodyear Welted in Portugal, this is a brilliant, versatile shoe for both formal and casual occasions. Let’s dive right into it!
The Noble Shoe is Misiu Academy’s online shop. Selling the best Welted Shoes by Carlos Santos, luxury ties by Stefano Cau and offering an exclusive partnership with ZEB Shoes MTO, The Noble Shoe is here to take your wardrobe to the next level.
With daring designs, the best leathers and customer centric support, we are here to help you. This article goes through all the different RTW shoes on offer by the shop. Some of them are so exciting I can hardly contain my enthusiasm! If you are interested make sure to drop us an email! Quantities are limited!