I Love This Suit, But Is It Worth It?
I can already tell you how much I enjoy wearing this unique Suitsupply Jort Suit. A Limited Seasonal Drop from Suitsupply with a high price and often overlooked.
After postponing the Review for quite some time I managed to do it no thanks to the arrival of Winter. Very interestingly there is a surprisingly low amount of reviews out there on the Jort Collection and I am here to satisfy those curious souls.
As always I will show you the details of the suit as well as some of my favorite outfits while we discuss if it’s worth your money or not.
A Controversial Dutch Celebrity
I am not a huge fan of celebrities. They slap their name on a product and more often than not their retail price skyrockets. No wonder the Suitsupply Jort Collection is the most expensive RTW Suit you can buy from the clothing giant.
It dons the same name as Jort Kelder who is a respected (yet controversial) public figure in the Netherlands. A close friend of the Dutch Prime Minister as well as Fokke De Jong (Founder of Suitsupply), Jort is a TV Persona that came under fire due to his latest remarks this year.
“We’re currently saving overweight octogenarians who smoke. Statistically speaking, this is what it’s all about. At some point, it’d be good to think to balance interests. How much economic damage to save people that would certainly would have ended up dying within the next two years.”
Jort Kelder, on Omrop Fryslân Radio
Now I am not here to talk politics or analyze his statements but it gives you an idea of how bold his own collection can be.
The Jort Collection usually drops later in each season (around October/November and March/April). At least that was the case when I worked there.
Long Live The Outlet
Before I discuss the specifications of the suit I would like to tell you the story behind the acquisition. As you all know and love this year Covid-19 blessed us with its presence. Most companies focused on retail and Brick & Mortal took a massive hit while many of them filed for bankruptcy. Suitsupply is no slouch but has over 130 stores all over the world.
Working there means I know exactly how much revenue each shop pulled in globally every day and believe me it is a lot. What happened then was a massive need for cash flow and the removal of dead stock and inventory.
And then we got a surprise massive Online Outlet in April 2020 with some superb deals. I made a splurge on some great pieces including this Jort Suit for 80% off.
Money well spent.
What makes a Jort Suit unique? I advise you to take a look at the In-Depth Article of all the Suitsupply Fits!
The short version is higher end limited fabrics, a different cut and lining and some unique trouser features. Let’s take a look at this one:
- Maker: Suitsupply
- Collection: Jort
- Mill: E.Thomas
- Material: 90% Wool/10% Cashmere
- Pattern: (Double) Windowpane
- Style: Single Breasted
- Color: Light Brown
- Canvas: Fully Canvassed
- Lining: Butterfly Style (100% Cupro)
- Lapels: Wide Notch
- Shoulders: Pleated Lightly Padded
- Details: AMF Stitching
- Buttons: Real Horn
- Pockets: Patch
- Underarm: Sous Bras
- Trousers: Flat Front
- Turn-Up: Buttoned 4.5 cm
- Waist: Side Adjusters
- Fly Piece: Button Fly with Hooks & Buttons
- Retail Price: $1099 USD
- Origin: China
There are of course some minor details like a fishtail or slanted pockets not worth mentioning as most of the buzz words. However you do get a lot of features and a rather long list. I should probably mention that while the lining is cupro, the sleeves have a about 40% Polyester in them.
During the review you should be able to spot most of the details. If I missed some or you want to see something specific, let me know in the comments!
How Is The Suit Quality
When you decide to spend $1100 on an RTW Suit you should expect very good quality. While I am not a suit maker, I did work there for a period of time sufficient to gauge the quality of a suit. Feeling and touching thousands of suits allowed me to be able to judge at least the components to a fair degree.
This suit was from a very recent collection from the end of 2019 when I worked there which means it had a very short life span of a few months before it ended in the outlet. In some cases clothing articles remain in the outlets for longer periods of time and some people report them slightly not up to par with their expectations. All the suits I received from the Outlet were perfect apart from their ridiculous package.
In this case I knew what exactly what to expect and luckily I can report that the quality is great. The fabric has the flannel wool feel but with the added softness of cashmere. The pattern making is satisfactory and as a suit it feels great to both handle and wear.
After my initial experience with the La Spalla Shoulders (Review Here) I began to appreciate the soft pleated shoulders more and more. I cannot find visible components that feel cheap apart maybe from their weak button stitching. A thing that bothers me yet I don’t feel qualified to find the reasoning behind it is the sleeve lining.
As aforementioned in the previous section the lining of the Suitsupply Jort is 100% Cupro. However the sleeve is 60.8% Cupro and 39.2% Polyester which is rather weird for a suit with such high price. We use synthetics to add strength to components such as elastane in trousers so my only possible explanation is strength for high stress components like sleeves. Or they just wanted to lower the cost which plainly sucks. Do any of you have information or experience about this?
Tip: There are unlined versions of Jort Suits
The Jort Fit
If you are a bigger man you should either look at MTM or another brand. Suitsupply’s cuts are slim to say the least and quite tapered and the Jort is no exception. For me personally the closest fit to the Jort is something between the Lazio and the Havana.
The waist appears to be a little slimmer than the Havana while some report the button stance to be a little lower. Frankly, I would say it’s negligible. When I worked there the sales reps always told the customers that the Suitsupply Trousers have a higher rise than most brands. Personally I think that is rubbish and if anything, Suitsupply pants are low rise with a few exceptions. The Jort Trousers seem to have more of a medium rise and I really like the fact that they come with side adjusters.
However if you suffer from the common issue of different hips and thighs you will not fit in. Just forget about it. Not available to mix and match jackets and with already a slim cut means these are not for a larger or disproportionate person. You can tell Suitsupply is aware of it as you will not find the Jort in Long or Short Sizes.
The button stance is a debatable thing and is the one detail the “experts” that browse Styleforum will talk to you about. If your torso is a bit shorter or you have a wider hip you will often get the “skirt effect” where there is a narrower waist but wider bottom.
So yes, I would like a lower button stance but when you buy RTW you should be ready to make some compromises. I feel and think it looks great on me and I enjoy wearing it though I am aware about trouser rise and button stance. Plus, I paid only $250 for it.
Reminder: For more information on all Suitsupply Fits Read The Guide!
If you belong to the 0.01% that fits into an RTW Suit with no need for alterations, bless the gods. For the rest of us it is absolutely certain that we will need some form of alteration.
The most usual ones are:
- Sleeves: Shortening or lengthening (Max +/- 1.5 cm)
- Jacket Waist: Letting in or out (Max around +/- 4 cm)
- Trouser Waist: Letting in or out (Max around +/- 5 cm)
- Seat: Has to be a combo with Trouser Waist (Max +/- 3 cm)
- Leg Tapering: Can remove 4 cm on the upper and 5 cm on the lower leg
- Trouser Length: Hemming (Max around – 20 cm)
For anywhere between $10 and $30 it becomes obvious that alterations are a part of the game and a potentially significant cost. For me the situation is rather simple as I only need to shorten the sleeves 1.5 cm and hem the pants around 9 cm. Please note that due to the Suitsupply Jort Button-Turn Up the tailor might NOT be able to keep the button if you hem it. Make sure to ask.
You know, I find it very funny that most customers needed to chop 7-10 cm on their trousers consistently. Do the creators think that the average individual is a giant or is it a calculated plot to gain some money through alterations? Who knows.
My advice is that if you need to do more than 4-5 alterations drop it and go custom made or find another cut. And don’t let the sales rep completely lead the sale. In short, be brave enough to say no.
Bold Pattern, Endless Opportunities
There’s no question about the fact that this is a rather bold suit. This is the core of the Suitsupply Jort collection actually with the odd more formal and muted design.
The E.Thomas fabric is superb with a gentle light brown hue that can appear much whiter in natural light. It has some lovely double windowpane blue designs and is soft to the touch yet satisfactory warm. It is not a suit I feel I can wear as separates however nor I intend to since I enjoy it too much.
For me Dark Brown Suede Boots are the perfect companion for this in particular or shades of navy and black. It feels right at home whether it is an oxford or a dressy chukka though I am not sure yet how loafers would look with the ensemble.
Shades of light blue or light brown can work pretty well but where it really shines is with a contrasting cooler color such as denim and dark green.
I must admit that this is not for the faint of heart and you need a hefty dose of self-confidence to wear it. But if you do I bet all eyes will be on you!
Closer Look At The Trousers
Let me begin with the weirdest statement in Suit Review History. If you have a small bladder or you are having a secret affair, the Suitsupply Jort is not for you.
It has a billion buttons you need to fasten and is terrible for a quick escape or quick relief. There is a total of 7 buttons actually and while aesthetically pleasing, it can be a hassle sometimes.
The button turn up is invisible and unnecessary, the kind of detail only you know about. The trousers themselves drape nicely over the legs and the material is pretty forgiving on your crotch.
Other than that you get a flat front, slanted pockets and your basic machine stitched buttonholes.
Is The Suitsupply Jort Worth My Money?
Two types of people will consider the Suitsupply Jort Collection. Those that have enough money to spend $1100 without an issue on a suit and do not want to wait for custom clothing and those that really want a specific limited edition fabric.
The allure of the Jort Collection is limited high end fabrics and patterns that are not available to everyone. You cannot make them in Custom Made or Made to Measure. Your best bet would be to score a nice deal on a potential Outlet or second hand.
Needless to say that from a value perspective you should not buy any of these as a half-canvas Sienna or Lazio model will offer the same base features for half the price. If you look at the more conservative Jort pieces they often use S150 and S170 wool fabrics which are completely unusable in daily life and frequent use. For those people it is better to make a MTM Suit for less money or choose a better work horse suit fabric. However for the more bolder designs like today’s suit there is more merit and if you really like them and can afford it, go for them! I can actually endorse this more than the La Spalla for this reason alone.
I enjoy value as much as quality. Hence I would never buy this suit for the full price. But if you can score a good deal take it! Just make sure this is not one of your first 5 suits but more of a casual special one.
If you do end up getting one you will find satisfactory quality, a slimmer cut and a possible smile on your face.
Hey, Is There A Physical Suitsupply Outlet?
Did you know that if you are in Belgium or the Netherlands you have access to a physical Suitsupply Store?
You can find one by searching Google Maps for “Suitsupply Roosendaal” while the other I think is “Suitsupply Lelystad“. Otherwise you would need to hope that the Online Outlet is available in your region twice a year.
My tip is if you plan to visit the outlet stores, send them a mail with what you are looking for so you know what to expect!
The Suitsupply Jort is a hard recommendation for full price but easier to suggest than the La Spalla. This is mainly due to the limited fabrics and unique patterns. If you do get it and you do not want to wait for custom items however it is a solid buy. For me it is one of my favorite suits of the year and I enjoy each and every wear. The fact is that no matter how good their high end suits are, Suitsupply will always have the reputation of value suits in the entry/mid-range and that stigma will always follow them. Plus, they are now a jack of all trades making everything imaginable. The problem with a restaurant that offers a huge catalogue of food to choose from is that they are probably average at all of them, but not particularly good in any of them.
So that brings the Suitsupply Jort Collection Review Article to a close! What did you think? Is there something missing or something I can improve? If you are the owner or prospective buyer of a Jort article I would love to hear your opinions about it. I will see you next week with the monthly welted news article! Until then stay safe and please consider Subscribing to Misiu Academy to support my efforts!
Thank you for reading,