Lanieri Custom Dress Suits Review: S130 Guabello Dark Green MTM Suit

Lanieri Green Suit Review

happy customers come back!

Welcome to another article about Lanieri which is my current favorite MTM Suit Brand.

This is my third commission from them but the second fully fledged suit.

In today’s article I will talk about the quality, consistency, store experience and of course fit.

Let’s go!

green, again?

A Green (tasteful) suit is one nobody needs, but everybody should have.

Absolutely an amazing, underrated and extremely versatile color when done right.

When I say right, I simply mean don’t dress like The Riddler.

However, I must admit that it takes certain confidence to wear one and stand out.

If you remember, I already had an Emerald Green Double Breasted Flannel Suit by Suitsupply.

Then the trousers ripped at the crotch and Lanieri offered me the solution with the same fabric.

In fact, it was a great opportunity to do a comparison between the two and see the differences in quality.

Getting a second suit wasn’t planned, but I was enamored by the fabric when I visited the Lanieri atelier at the end of January.

I should quickly disclose that I purchased this suit from Lanieri with my own money at full price.

Tip: Read my Review of my first Lanieri Suit here.

visiting the lanieri atelier

Lanieri is my current go-to when it comes to suits.

I am in the process of phasing out my Suitsupply wardrobe and it was time to make something new.

And since I am in Italy why not visit Lanieri directly in one of their ateliers?

I thought my options would be Milan and Rome, but to my surprise there was one in Bologna.

Lanieri Milano
The Lanieri Store in Milan

Bologna is a historical city full of art and hidden treasures with a lovely university vibe.

Quite conveniently it is only 38 minutes by train from Florence and another 10-15 minutes of walking.

I booked my appointment and also brought my other Lanieri suit which required a few adjustments.

Riccardo -who is an employee at the Rome store- greeted me in a nice, minimalist shop.

I actually liked it because it reminded me more of an art gallery and contemporary fashion.

Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures of the shop as I was there to do business.

small alterations on the first suit

If you remember, one of my criticisms of the first suit was that the shoulders were a bit wider and the sleeves a bit longer.

So I wore the suit and went through the details with Riccardo.

In the end, we shortened the sleeves and he tapered the arms a bit and also took the trouser waist in 2 cm.

He even kept my suit and shipped it free of charge to my home with DHL a week later.

I will update when I have more photos of the current fit, but it is certainly better.

Additionally, it was a good way to gauge the fit and adjust for the next suit.

choosing a suit color & fabric

We sat down on the couch and went through the swatches and details.

The experience was very reminiscent of Suitsupply, but much calmer which I am thankful of.

It is the same as using the online customization tool but in person.

One of the criticisms I have for Lanieri is that a lot of suit fabrics were unavailable (including a gorgeous dark brown with blue over-checks).

It could be bad timing since there are shortages of raw materials in the world and a new collection was just released.

However, I would certainly love to see a bigger selection of non-traditional colors.

Lanieri Review Guabello Fabric
Today’s Review Suit: The Lanieri Dark Green Guabello S130

Despite the great selection, I kept going back to this teal green S130 fabric.

In the end I caved in and I am elated with the result as you will see.

I should also mention that at no point did Riccardo try to cross-sell me unnecessary stuff.

Very grateful to that after my days working at Suitsupply.

specifications

Before we dive in the actual suit, let’s look at the specifications first:

  • Brand: Lanieri
  • Type: 2 Piece Suit
  • Color: Dark Green (Teal)
  • Fabric: S130 Wool by Guabello
  • Weaving: Twill
  • Lapels: Wide Pointed
  • Pockets: Flap
  • Shoulders: A camicia (Shirt Shoulders)
  • Sleeves: 4 Buttons
  • Button Color: Mahogany
  • Lining: Bemberg (Fully Lined)
  • Trousers: +4.5 cm Rise
  • Specials: 4 cm Turn Up & Side Adjusters
  • Made In: Italy
  • Price: €760 ($830)

Luxurious fabric, good experience and nice customization for a competitive price.

Given that the Suitsupply version would begin at $800 USD for a Chinese made lesser fabric I am very happy with the price.

blazing fast delivery

I placed my order on the 28th of January 2022 with a quoted delivery of 4-14 March.

To my surprise the suit was ready only 3 weeks later!

It came in the typical Lanieri box, packed nicely with its suit bag and excellent wooden hanger.

I should also mention that compared to last time, the box arrived in mint condition.

Lanieri Review Box
Last time the box was a little damaged, but this time it was perfect (Photo from my archive)

Of course after taking a moment to admire the color and checking for possible problems, I tried it on.

I spotted only one thing that disappointed me slightly and I will address later.

However I must commend Lanieri for their communication and customer service.

Certainly one of the traits I am looking for when I shop these days.

The Guabello Fabric

Guabello seemingly produces S180 fabrics for Kiton, which should be a good vouch for quality.

This famous Italian woolen mill has over 200 years of history and of course established in Biella.

Biella is Italy’s most famous region for wool and Guabello reaps all the rewards.

This is my first fabric from this mill and it impressed me greatly.

For the longest time I was looking for a teal fabric that leaned towards the dark green spectrum.

It was not so visible in the swatch, but this suit has such a rich, luxurious color.

Guabello S130
This Twill fabric by Guabello was really nice and what I was looking for

Very fine to the touch, with a slight sheen and lovely drape.

It is a Super 130, which makes it slightly more delicate but with the type of use I have it should last for a long time.

The twill weave is classic and the pattern cutting looks good and consistent.

In the end we will see how it performs with age, but just looking at it will make you feel special.

If you get the chance to try Guabello, I would recommend it.

Reminder: This fabric was seasonal and not available at the time that I published this!

construction & details

Overall the suit is rock solid just like the previous one.

It feels good, looks good, drapes nicely and there are small details I appreciate.

For example, these side adjusters were slightly smaller (or was it my idea?).

Side Adjusters
Side Adjusters on the trousers

The breast pocket is more compact and the pocket square doesn’t disappear in it as with my Suitsupply suits.

Range of movement is good and there was no pressure on my lower back.

I will speak about the trousers separately, but the high rise is so comfortable and flattering.

One thing that I wish was an option is adjusting the button stance.

I would personally benefit from it being slightly lower.

Lanieri MTM Fit

The first challenge for me was to replicate the fit of the first suit and improve the few areas I miscalculated.

With the help of Riccardo, we adjusted the sleeves, arms and waist.

He assured me that the trousers would not end up like the green trousers I got last time.

Maybe it was a miscommunication due to the language barrier, but the trousers came again 2 cm longer.

Lanieri Trousers
Looking pretty good now

Of course they covered the alterations and I asked for store credit instead of a refund on those.

The arms were fine, but in all honesty I would prefer about half a cm shorter sleeves.

No problem, easily adjustable and I will take care of it after some consideration.

Lastly, another challenge was that this is a single breasted suit so I had no idea how it would behave.

Since commissioning, I have been a lot at the gym and my chest became bigger.

With some weight fluctuations, there is a slight X when I button the suit.

Lanieri Chest Fit
It fits me quite well, with a tiny room for improvement, however weight fluctuates a lot!

It is not a problem since I never button my suit but there is also some gaping at the breast area.

Which is why I would like a slightly lower button stance to counter that.

Side & Back

Nothing really changed here, other than the shoulders fitting better and the arms are slightly slimmer.

The rest of the fit from the side and the back was good.

Lanieri Fit Back
The Lanieri Fit at the back

We took the pictures after a long day out, so don’t complain about the creases on the back.

It was intentional because I feel it represents a realistic scenario during the day.

There’s no collar gap, the square back neck is none really and overall a great acceptable fit.

trousers

I already mentioned what my biggest problem with the trousers was.

The first trouser separates weirdly came longer than expected (about 2 cm).

Lanieri MTM Trousers
The Lanieri MTM Trousers from my second commission

Other than that, the slightly slimmer waist was great from the get go.

It feels good and spacious to keep my hands in the pockets with the modern pleats.

Stefano Bemer Shoes
Stefano Bemer Shoes, Viccel Socks & Lanieri Trousers

Irrelevant, but there is a slight thing to consider with higher rise trousers and that is tie length.

Since most ties have an appropriate length for normal and low rise trousers the blade (skinny end) might be too long.

That is because your tie should end around the beginning of your trousers (belt line).

Lanieri Suit
I am very satisfied with the overall outcome

So I had to improvise and tuck the blade in the trousers at some points.

A curse of training is that my upper thigh is bigger again but it doesn’t bother me.

what about the rest of the outfit?

Since people asked me before, here’s what I am wearing here:

Also, if you are planning to try out Lanieri you can use my Ambassador Code.

You get €100 Discount on your first order (over €300) which is pretty cool!

The Code is MISIUACADEMY and you can apply it during checkout.

Code MISIUACADEMY ($100 Discount)

Wearing a dark green suit

Honestly, this needs a new updated article (Old one here).

Generally, darker colors of any kind are good candidates for suits.

Navy, Charcoal, Dark Chocolate and of course Dark Green.

Especially this particular one that has a more blueish tint to it.

The beauty is that you can wear pretty much any shirt you want including a light brown.

Suitsupply Emerald Green Suit
The original full Suitsupply Emerald Green Suit

The same goes for ties, pocket squares and socks.

Shoes on the other hand are slightly trickier but as demonstrated last time you can be creative.

Light blue, Navy blue, darker shades of brown, possibly some kind of oxblood.

I would avoid tan colored shoes or cognac because you risk looking like a Christmas tree.

Thoughts about lanieri

I have no affiliation with Lanieri anymore, I just really like their products.

Personally I think their pricing for what they offer is good, with excellent fabric quality and enough customization.

The staff is accommodating and helpful, deliveries and turnarounds are quick and alterations free.

There was certainly some miscommunication regarding the trouser length, but nothing important.

Of course, there is a small element of uncertainty during your first commission, but at the same time it is free to remake.

Lanieri Review Suit
Lanieri Review | Overview & Multiple sides of the fit of my first suit

My first suit was good, my second better and I expect the third one to be just as I want it.

This follows pretty much the idea of Bespoke shoes, where your fit will improve with each subsequent pair.

Lastly, what I would like to see from Lanieri is more fun, colorful fabrics and some daring patterns.

I really recommend checking them out and remember you can get $100 off your first purchase with my Code (MISIUACADEMY).

For those wondering, I also get $100 back in store credit if you use my link and nothing more.

VIdeo review

Here’s my first ever Video Review of a Suit so enjoy!

final thoughts

This brings me to the end of this Review of my Dark Green Lanieri MTM Suit.

I absolutely love how it looks and feels and it is finally a single breasted, non-flannel version I can experiment with.

The fit was a marked improvement with a couple of small spots to correct.

It still remains my favorite current brand and best alternative for those that want to escape from declining Suitsupply.

I got many compliments and looks while wearing it and so will you.

Did you like the suit and the article? Let me know in the comments below with your thoughts!

Maybe there’s a suit brand that you would like me to Review?

I will see you next week!

Thank you for reading,

Kostas Mandilaris,
Misiu Academy

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