The long awaited moment of me blasting Allen Edmonds in a Review arrived today.
I had the displeasure of handling not one, but two Allen Edmonds shoes.
The Park Avenue and McAllister in black and burgundy calf respectively.
Join me as I try to wrap my head around what I witnessed today.
Who Is Allen Edmonds?
Allen Edmonds is probably the most iconic shoe brand in the USA.
Established in 1922 it is actually 100 years old and still going strong today.
A strong supplier of the USA Army during the war it remained a relatively family operation until 1980.
In 2006 a private company bought 90% of the shares and changed hands twice in 2013 and 2016.
Producing a million pairs a year, this makes them a colossal player in North America.
Such large numbers do come with a massive challenge of preserving the quality.
Heralded as one of the USA’s last “Made in the USA” Shoe brands, they have a lot to live up to.
Declining Quality Accusations
For the last 15 years, there have been multiple accusations about the declining quality of Allen Edmonds Shoes.
If you go and look at the recent Trustpilot reviews, the results are scathing.
When you produce so many shoes in an industrial scale, of course cannot be as high and consistent.
However, many people still don’t know that most of the shoes are partly assembled in the Dominican Republic.
I handled Allen Edmonds shoes before this review, but not to such an extensive scale as today.
For the MSRP Full Price I can safely say they are some of the worst shoes I’ve seen for the price besides designer shoes.
Why Should You Buy Allen Edmonds Shoes?
Before the actual Review, I want to talk about the positives first.
They are certainly solid shoes and a good place to start learning about welted footwear in the USA.
Outside of North America, it makes absolutely no sense to get them.
Virtually always on sale, they are also not bad for the $200-250 mark they are selling at.
However, for their $400-500 full asking price you should never consider them.
So why should you buy Allen Edmonds Shoes?
Because they are affordable (on sale), extremely easy to find and try on and presentable.
They also carry a massive range of styles, widths and small or large sizes which many other brands lack.
Lastly, they provide an excellent reference for future online purchases especially when compared to European Brands.
Today’s Review Pairs
In today’s Review I will be looking at two of their iconic shoes: The Allen Edmonds Park Avenue & McAllister.
A friend from the USA brought them with him just so I could take a look.
Unfortunately I had only my phone so the pictures might be a bit lower quality than usual.
Here are the specifications:
- Brand: Allen Edmonds
- Model: Park Avenue/McAllister
- Style: Cap-Toe Oxford/Wingtip Brogue
- Leather: Calfskin
- Color: Black/Burgundy
- Construction: 360° Goodyear Welt
- Sole: Leather Open Channel/Dainite Rubber Studded
- Made In: USA/Dominican Republic
- Price: $395/$425
There is a lot to unpack here so let’s begin analyzing each component.
As a coincidence, I was wearing my own (and only) pair of Black Oxfords today.
It served as a good comparison to the Park Avenue in both style, elegance and shape.
Styling can be subjective and the shape of a shoe and subsequently last is up to personal taste.
The Allen Edmonds shoes had a much rounder shape which is often popular in North America.
I was also not a fan of the 360° Goodyear Welt which runs all around the shoe since it makes appear more bulky at the back.
At first glance, the leather looked fine (which is a plus) but I noticed so many things I wanted to look closely.
Both shoes are about 5 years old however my friend only wears the McAllister as a beater and only tried once or twice the Park Avenue.
A pleasant surprise was that the balance of the shoe while standing was good.
Leather Quality & Aging
In one of the rare positives I found, the leather seemed quite good.
It creased nicely and in the right places and the burgundy pair even developed some nice patina over the years.
Overall, it was a good experience and not bad at all.
Here is where things took a turn for the worse.
The stitching quality in both pairs was wildly inconsistent and a massive disappointment.
Not just on the uppers, but also the welt and outsole as you will read about later.
Uneven, not level and with questionable design decisions to say the least.
I didn’t understand the triple stitching around the Park Avenue’s throat and quarters but that’s a stylistic choice.
However it does mean that any mistake will be visible upon closer inspection.
The spacing between each line of stitching is extremely uneven and this is also the case at the top of the opening right next to the folded piping.
For $395 it is unacceptable and many shoes at the $200 mark are much better.
In fact, shoes I had from Myrqvist, CNES and Bridlen all had far superior stitching.
Even Meermin, who I am not the biggest fan of did.
The fun part is that I haven’t even started talking about the welt and outsole yet.
Overall, both Allen Edmonds shoes were quite solid when it comes to build quality.
I watched other tear-downs so I know they use a wooden shank, type of cork spread and thermoplastic stiffeners, which is quite normal at this price.
In fact, in many cases you won’t feel any difference structurally.
Holding it, it’s a solid shoe though I must admit the toe spring is over-exaggerated.
Welt & Outsole
Moving on, we are going to talk about the welt and outsole areas.
The welt joint is well done, but the stitching in the area varies a lot.
It would not be such a problem visually if the outsole wasn’t so terrible.
The edge and side is so rough, which makes me question if they properly sanded it.
Very bumpy and uneven especially at the top but also at the heel point.
So when they applied the edge dressing it has this coagulated, rough and textured look instead of a glossy, seamless finish.
Part of the outsole also warped and separated from the welt joint, which by the way is actually quite clean.
On the bottom, there’s not that much to say about the Park Avenue’s Leather Sole.
I looked at my friend with a very confused look as many of the stitches had ripped or frayed.
Owning quite a few shoes with rubber soles and studs with quite some wear, I never saw such an extensive damage.
Was that a single rare case?
I don’t know but it was certainly a disappointment.
Last & Fit
Unless I forgot, both shoes are on the classic 65 Last.
It is a great reference for me when I have clients from the USA that try to find their sizing.
It’s not a last I would consider elegant, certainly not when comparing to the 325 from Crockett & Jones for example.
I didn’t try on these pairs, but I did in the past and my sizing was consistent with my other shoes.
A typical UK 8 (US 9D) with a bit of pinching on my little toes and slight pressure on my instep.
Do I Hate theM?
I do not hate Allen Edmonds shoes, even though it was a massive disappointment.
Unless you have certain criteria, you should actively avoid buying them.
Even more, you should never spend full price as they are virtually always on sale.
I feel bad for wasting precious shell cordovan when you can buy proper shoes from brands like Carmina.
Because this is the main issue, value and quality for the price point.
Anywhere between the $200 and $500 mark there are fantastic brands you can invest with higher quality and refinement.
You will often see me praise the availability, widths, models and sizes that you can get in North America.
It is a blessing for people with difficult feet.
At the same time, I cannot actively endorse a company with such a low level of quality control or tolerance.
This brings me to the end of the Allen Edmonds Review Article.
I am still processing what I experienced.
If this is the standard, it is quite low and unfortunately if they still sell like hot cakes there is no incentive to improve.
While I do understand that I might upset some people and especially fans, nobody can deny the obvious lack in quality control here.
These pairs should qualify as seconds at best and not over $150-$200.
Regardless, I will close this shorter review with a reminder to buy quality over quantity or hype.
I am in London for a few weeks, so I hope you will enjoy the different kind of upcoming content.
Thank you for reading,